‘After sailing for some hours,’ says Warburton,[25] ‘through a country
quite level on the eastern bank, we come upon a precipitous rocky
mountain, starting up so suddenly from the river’s edge, that its very
summits are reflected in the water. We moored under a sand-bank, and,
accompanied by half-a-dozen of the crew with torches, approached this
isolated and stupendous rock. Yet even here the daring genius of
Ethiopian architecture ventured to enter into rivalry with Nature’s
greatness, and found her material in the very mountains that seemed to
bid defiance to her efforts.
Footnote 25:
‘The Crescent and the Cross.’
‘On the face of the vertical cliff a recess is excavated to the extent
of about a hundred feet in width. From this four gigantic figures stand
out in very bold relief. Between the two central stony giants, a lofty
doorway opens into a vast hall, supported by square pillars, each the
size of a tower, and covered with hieroglyphics. Just enough painting
still glimmers faintly on these columns to show that they were formerly
covered with it; and the walls are carved into historic figures in
slight relief; these, as our torches threw an uncertain glare over them,
seemed to move and become instinct with life.
‘This temple was dedicated to Athor, the lady of Aboccis (the ancient
name of Ipsamboul), who is represented within under the form of the
sacred bow. This was, however, a mere “chapel of ease” to the great
temple, excavated from a loftier rock, about fifty yards distant.
Between these two a deep gorge once ran to the river, but this is now
choked up with sand, in whose burning waves we waded knee-deep to the
Temple of Osiris.
‘Here a space of about 100 feet in height is hewn from the mountain;
smooth, except for the reliefs. Along the summit runs a frieze of little
monkeys in long array, as if the architect felt the absurdity of the
whole business, or as Byron sometimes finishes off a sublime sentence
with a scoff. Then succeeds a line of hieroglyphics and some faintly-
carved figures, also in relief, and then four colossal giants that seem
to guard the portal. They are seated on thrones (which form, with
themselves, part of the living rock), and are about sixty feet high. One
is quite perfect, admirably cut, and the proportions admirably
preserved; the second is defaced as far as the knee; the third is buried
in sand to the waist; and the fourth has only the face and neck visible
above the desert’s sandy avalanche.
‘The doorway stands between the two central statues, and is surmounted
by the statue of Isis wearing the moon as a turban.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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