On the bleak Puna, or high table-land between the parallel chains of the
Cordillera and the Andes, is situated the famous mining town of Pasco.
Surrounded by a crescent of steep and naked rocks, its straggling
buildings extend over an uneven ground, bordered by small marshes and
lagunes. The shivering traveller, descending from the windy heights, is
at first agreeably surprised by the sight of a large town in the midst
of these dreary solitudes; but a nearer inspection of its narrow crooked
streets, and of its miserable huts, with here and there a stately
mansion, soon dissipates the fancies he may have formed at a distance.
The wild, forbidding aspect of the neighbourhood, and the rigorous
climate, only a short day’s journey from the loveliest valleys, prove
the greatness of the subterranean treasures which could induce so large
a population to settle in so harsh a region.
The mines of Pasco, like those of Potosi, were discovered, it is said,
by an Indian shepherd, who, accidentally lighting a fire where the ores
cropped out, found silver among the ashes. There are two chief lodes,
with numerous branches, so that the whole neighbourhood may be
considered as resting on a subterranean network of silver. The entrances
to most of the mines are situated in the town itself; and, as every
proprietor thinks only of his present profits, they are worked in so
slovenly a manner that they frequently fall in. Tschudi, who visited
some of the deepest of them, always thought himself extremely fortunate
when, after descending on half-rotten steps or by mouldering ropes and
rusty chains, he returned again to daylight without accident, and
mentions an instance where three hundred workmen were buried in the
ruins of a mine, in which the necessary props had been shamefully
neglected.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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