Near the temple
a well has been dug fifty feet deep, in which the gas accumulates in
larger quantities. Koch (‘Wanderungen im Oriente,’ 1843–4) tells us that
he here enjoyed a sight more wonderful and surprising than any he had
ever witnessed before. A carpet was spread over the mouth of the well to
prevent the gas from escaping. After a few minutes, a priest seized a
bundle of brushwood, in which a piece of burning paper had been stuck,
and flung it into the well, after quickly removing the carpet. The
strangers had previously been warned to keep at some distance, and the
priest and his assistants likewise ran off as fast as they could. About
half a minute after the fire-brand had been cast into the pit, a
terrific explosion took place, and a vast column of fire, in the shape
of an inverted cone (from the gas spreading out as soon as it emerges
from the pit), ascended to the skies.
How long the fires of Baku may have been burning is unknown, but it is
very probable that they did not exist before the Christian era. No Greek
or Roman author mentions them, and it is not before the tenth century
that Arab writers take notice of Baku and its wonders. When the
Sassanides restored the religion of Zoroaster, the attention of these
fire-worshipping princes was naturally directed to a place where fire
gushes pure and unbidden from the earth. They raised a temple on the
spot, and thousands of pilgrims wandered to the holy fires of Baku. But
when the fanatical Arabs overthrew the Persian Empire, times of
persecution and distress began for the Parsees; and still later they
were almost entirely extirpated by the hordes of Tamerlane. During the
last centuries fire-worshipping was again introduced by the Indians,
who, after the Sefides had ascended the Persian throne, gradually
settled in the Caspian provinces, and whose number must have been
considerable, as travellers inform us that in the latter half of the
seventeenth century 200 rich Indian merchants were residing in the town
of Schemachi. But the anarchical times which followed the usurpation of
Nadir Schah forced most of these Indians to leave their adopted country,
and since then only solitary pilgrims have found their way to Baku. But
the number even of these is constantly diminishing, although the
Russians, to whom the sanctuary now belongs, allow them full freedom of
access. When Koch was at Baku, he found there only five Indians from
Mooltan, whither the majority would gladly have returned, had they but
possessed the necessary means. Their squalid appearance and tattered
raiment formed the strongest imaginable contrast to the splendour of the
element they worshipped. Among them was a Fakir, who had made a vow
constantly to remain in the same position absorbed in religious
contemplation, and who for sixteen years had never moved from the spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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