Severe earthquakes are not seldom accompanied by a violent agitation of
the sea. First, at the instant of the shock, the water swells high up on
the beach with a gentle motion, and then as quietly recedes; secondly,
some time afterwards, the whole body of the sea retires from the coast,
and then returns in waves of overwhelming force. The first movement
seems to be an immediate consequence of the earthquake affecting
differently a fluid and a solid, so that their respective levels are
slightly deranged; but the second is a far more important phenomenon.
‘Some authors,’ says Mr. Darwin, ‘have attempted to explain it by
supposing that the sea retains its level, while the land oscillates
upwards; but surely the water close to the land, even on a rather steep
coast, would partake of the motion of the bottom; moreover, similar
movements of the sea have occurred at islands far distant from the chief
line of disturbance. I suspect (but the subject is a very obscure one)
that a wave, however produced, _first draws the water from the shore_ on
which it is advancing to break. I have observed that this happens with
the little waves from the paddles of a steamboat. From the great wave
not immediately following the earthquake, but sometimes after the
interval of even half-an-hour, and from distant islands being affected
similarly with the coasts near the focus of the disturbance, it appears
that the wave first rises in the offing, and, as this is of general
occurrence, the cause must be general. I suspect we must look to the
line where the less disturbed waters of the deep ocean join the water
nearer the coast which has partaken of the movements of the land, as the
place where the great wave is first generated; it would also appear that
the wave is larger or smaller according to the extent of shoal water
which has been agitated together with the bottom on which it rested.’
The following examples sufficiently prove that no storm, however
violent, is capable of raising such prodigious waves as an earthquake.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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