"Countess Castiglione in her day was considered the most beautiful woman living. A classical beauty, but entirely without charm. For the last years she has lived, after having arrived at the age of eighty, in a dismal apartment in the Place Vendôme, friendless, forgotten, and neglected." All her mirrors were covered with black stuff of some kind; she did not wish to see the sad relics of her beauty. At eleven o'clock every evening she took a walk with her maid around the Place Vendôme. She stayed in bed all day, never rising till twilight, and receiving no one but one or two old admirers who were faithful to the end. Her things (_haillons_ they were called in official language) were sold at auction--piles of old ball-shoes, head-gear, gloves stiffened with moisture and age. Apparently, she never gave anything away, but hoarded her treasures, which after her death were swept in corners and smelled of mold and damp. We are named to Berlin. I am very sorry to leave Paris; I was getting quite accustomed to its little ways. Johan went to the Elysées to present his _lettres de rappel_. It seems only yesterday he went to present his _lettres de créance_. The President gave him the Grand Cordon of the _Légion d'honneur_, and to me the beautiful _service de Sevres_ called "_La Chasse_," a _surtout de table_ of five pieces. This is only given to royalty or Ambassadors. One cannot buy it, as it belongs to the French government. I heard that they hesitated between giving me that or a piece of Gobelin tapestry. I was glad they chose the _surtout de table_. It will be useful in two ways--as a subject of conversation and as a beautiful souvenir of our stay in Paris. BERLIN, 1902-1912 BERLIN, _January 22, 1903_. Dear L.,--J.'s presentation of his _lettres de créance_ to the Emperor was a small affair compared with former functions, which were combined with gala coaches, powdered coachmen, and _pourboires_. It was simply taking a train to Potsdam, in which there was a section called _Kaiserlich_. The Minister of Foreign Affairs accompanied him, as was his duty. In a royal carriage from the court they were driven to the Neues Palais. J. was met by the _Introducteur des Ambassadeurs_ (Herr von Knesebeck) and conducted into the presence of the Emperor, where J. made his speech. The Emperor was very official and ceremonious when he responded, but in the conversation afterward was affability itself. J.'s audience with the Empress was very hurried, because of the Crown Prince of Denmark, who had arrived the night before in Berlin. He stayed two days at Neues Palais.