The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
We had approached to the foot of the mountain range we had hitherto
seen from afar, to which the road ascended by gradual inclines. The
higher we wound from the heat below, the sharper became the breeze.
On all sides Alpine vegetation spread around, perfuming the air with
a hundred odours. We pursued the zig-zags until we were enclosed by
a semicircle of enormous precipices and stupendous rocks, on whose
beetling brows the toppling fir-trees clung. We felt overwhelmed by
the sight of these stupendous masses, for it seemed as if a breath
would dislodge them, and hurl them down upon us. The road, escaping
for a time from the deep recesses of these adamantine walls, skirted
the level edge of a lofty precipice; and, on one occasion, we splashed
through a torrent which, a few feet on our left, fell in a wide arch
over the rocky margin, and rushed, silvering in the sunny air, far down
into the dark gulf beneath, while the roar of its waters echoed like
distant thunder amongst the hollows of the desolate mountains. Again
we ascended, and in proportion as we rose, the peaks seemed to rear
themselves above us. Then we dived into a vast enclosure of vertical
walls, in which we felt as if in a prison, deep and gloomy itself, but
from which we could see the bright vault of heaven above.
After an hour's climb in this sombre valley, we sat down for rest and
a _cigarillo_ on a way-side stone to await the coming of the mules
and carriage. As we looked back through the rocky pass by which we
had entered the gorge, we had a pleasant, though far distant, view of
light green slopes and wide spreading plains, shining brightly in the
yellow glow of day, and occasionally tinted with the grey hues of the
olive. Bounding these plains, in a long narrow line of dazzling light,
were the white walls of Palma; while beyond, its hue contrasting with
the transparent blue of the spotless sky, and flecked here and there
by the white sail of the feluccas, quivered the long high line of
the purple sea. Higher yet we ascend, over roads paved by the Moors
six hundred years ago. Leaving the carriage on the path below, we
scramble up through tangled shrubberies, through cactus, aloes, carob,
evergreen oak, and ancient olive. All around and over us are piled the
wild mountains, with forests of pine scaling to their very peaks, and
standing out like funeral plumes in dark, black fringes against the
radiant sky. We pass groups of strong sunburnt peasants, with a simple
goat-skin tied upon their backs for a garment. We perceive among them
timid girls, large-eyed and hooded, with streaming plaits of blue-black
or golden auburn hair, and old women, squatting on mules, with their
heads covered by the hat, or masculine head-gear, like that worn by the
women of Wales. Wider and wider, as we rise above the lower landscape,
spreads the glorious prospect behind us--wild rock, verdant slope,
sunny plains, streaked with the dusky olive, the long, white line of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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