The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The village of Soller is a credit to the Spanish nation and to itself.
Spain and its towns are dirty and malodorous, sanitary laws being
generally neglected; but here, in this remote corner of her dominions,
lying unknown and buried in a deep mountain basin, and secluded from
the rest of the world, she possesses a beautiful little village,
remarkable for the cleanliness of its houses and people. At Soller, as
everywhere throughout the island, there is a decency of deportment, a
respect for law, a modesty and urbanity of demeanor which it is really
delightful to witness.
The interior of the little inn, or _posada_--which means literally a
place of repose--is washed and whitewashed, scrubbed and polished,
until it is as free from speck or stain as the far-famed Dutch villages
which are held up to the Great Unwashed at large as sanitary and
salutary examples. The little trestle bedsteads of white wood, with
their snowy sheets, in the little whitewashed bedrooms, seem in their
happy ignorance of the flea to put completely to the blush those foul
and noisome beds in Spanish inns in which the wearied traveller lies
down, not to find repose, but to offer himself a helpless victim
to myriads of enemies, who from every nook and cranny come forth,
thirsting for his blood.
The valley of Soller, only six miles in circumference, realizes
£25,000 per annum by the sale of its oranges and lemons, and £30,000
by its oil. The olive trees grow luxuriantly everywhere, and on
terraces cut out of the slopes of the mountains are nursed into the
highest perfection. The roads are in excellent condition, and so much
engineering skill has been displayed in their construction that the
transit of fruit over the mountains to the port of embarkation is a
comparatively easy matter. All the roads, the mountain passes, and
the island generally, are protected, although from the character of
the Majorcans the precaution is scarcely necessary, by a fine body
of police, called the _Guardia Civil_. They are a manly, robust body
of men, numbering eleven thousand, including those who are employed
on the entire eastern coast of the mainland, a comparatively small
number being required in the islands. In many parts of Spain proper,
brigandage exists to a considerable extent, and the whole force is
therefore ordered to parade their allotted districts with loaded
carbines. In Majorca their offices, as we have said, are little needed,
but on the mainland their interference is often requisite, and they
perform their arduous duties with all the rigour necessary for the
maintenance of law amongst the daring races who inhabit the mountains
and sea-coasts of Spain. If anyone who is discovered in the act of
setting the law at defiance refuses to surrender, he is shot down
without mercy. These intrepid men have often to maintain most unequal
struggles, and are, of course, held in great detestation amongst the
criminal classes, by whom they are frequently made victims to their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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