The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
We slept that night at the Convent of Lluch, a lonely place in a hollow
of the mountain. A forlorn-looking and cadaverous young man, in a long
garment of neutral tint, and with a greasy black angular cap on his
head, opened the door when we rang for admittance. His reception of us
was rather peculiar. After yawning and scratching himself, he turned
his back and went into the building, looking very like Noah going into
the ark, as popularly delineated in the familiar toy in vogue amongst
British infants. He, however, returned in a moment, with a candle
which shed a watery gleam on the bare walls, and ushered us into the
convent, where we were entertained in a rather frugal manner.
After discussing, at the extreme end of a very long table, in a very
long room, and in a very short time, a repast of sour wine, like very
inferior African port, with black bread and hard eggs, tasting as
if they had been boiled in lamp-oil, we retired to rest in a bare,
whitewashed cell, where we slept upon a couple of mattresses, covered
over with striped woollen mule rugs. We observed in our chamber,
hanging on a nail, a very depressing picture of some saint or other
with a catherine-wheel apparently exploding from the back of a very
bald head. The Convent of Lluch, or Luke, is celebrated as a place
where the Virgin, at some former period, descended from Heaven. She
came only once, we were told, and considering all things, we really
cannot wonder at her having found one visit quite sufficient.
After our fatiguing climb amongst the mountains, we were glad to
find ourselves again in the sunny city of Palma, with its old carved
gateways, its yellow, flat-roofed houses, dusty roads, acacia avenues,
picturesque population, and Damascus-like scenes. It was pleasant
to retire from the blaze of the midday sun into the cool shade of
old Gothic cloisters, with their beautiful pillars and arches. We
wandered with delight in the bright green garden in the midst, or
strayed at will into half-ruined courtyards, with grand old Moorish
arches, offering a dim and silent retreat. Everything in the city
has an Oriental character. The numerous actual remains of Saracenic
architecture, the splendid mansions built by mediæval knights or
merchants, the yellow walls on which the aloe grows, and the arched
windows here and there perched in picturesque irregularity, or looking
down into gardens filled with palms, cacti, and feathery shrubs, all
remind one of the East.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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