The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
in a moment more we descended, heated, dusty, wearied, and fretful at
the miserable barn-like railway station of Amposta, where we found a
_table d'hôte_ which groaned beneath the weight of a dish of olives, a
plate of dissected cock, some salad, and a bottle of wine, remarkably
_ordinaire_, which a shilling bottle of port from a Whitechapel
gin-palace would have put to the blush. There were also some jovial
viands in the shape of filthy little globules called grapes, and a few
sour flabby turnip-like vegetables entitled apples. Truly travellers
often see strange things in this country, to be remembered, of course,
among the _cosas de España_.
Here we got into a hot railway box, stuffed with cushions, apparently
filled with oil, from the odour they emitted, and then jogged along at
the rate of about six miles an hour. We were thankful to be well clear
of that depressing place, Amposta, and sat quietly in the carriage,
dreamily inhaling the morning air as we glided along. The stars were
gradually disappearing from the vault of night, or paling in the
advancing glory of the coming sun. A few golden bands flamed across the
eastern heaven, heralding the sun's first kiss on the morning of a new
day.
In a short time we were coasting along the Mediterranean waters. Now
we crossed a fragile looking wooden bridge, and swept high over the
waves which gently broke beneath. Then a lovely view of blue curving
shores with rocks and light-houses, and of the smooth sea flecked by
the white sails of numerous feluccas, broke upon the sight. Our road,
however, turned suddenly away from the coast, and we proceeded inland
through hot sandy plains, and occasional orchards of orange, citron,
and pomegranate. Groups of white flat-roofed houses gleaming in the
sun, with the palm trees waving over them, were seen pitched amongst
green fields of long bamboo, Indian corn, rice, and tobacco. Sometimes
we were near enough to rugged-looking mountains, to descry the dwarf
oak and arbutus with which they were clothed in all directions.
Tarragona was the next town we reached. Close to it we saw great aloes,
many of which were sprouting from the sand and rock-strewn beach, and
from the prostrate masonry of the Cæsars. There are two towns, the
higher and the lower, which are separated by a line of walls. The
higher city sits majestic on a lofty rock of limestone, and from a
height of eight hundred feet looks down upon the azure sea. The houses
are mainly composed of the ruins of Roman palaces,--even the simple
home of the artizan is adorned with marble friezes, or upheld by
portions of Corinthian columns;--and on the white marble flags in the
courts of the Imperial Baths, the swine were basking in the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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