The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The cathedral, of course, had to be _done_; and it is wonderful how
instinctively the tourist hunts out his natural mental food unaided.
In Italy, after breakfast, at any new place, it is always "Now for
the _Duomo_!" And so in Spain, in spite of the intricate windings
of streets and general labyrinthine state of the towns, sure as the
trained hunter upon his quarry, does the tourist seek out and find his
_chasse café_--the cathedral. Well, perhaps, there is nothing on earth
more sublime, majestic, and imposing than one of those masterpieces of
Christian architecture, a Spanish cathedral, no temple more fit and
worthy for the worship of the Eternal.
The Cathedral of Barcelona, like many others in Spain, is built upon
the site of a Moorish mosque, and is magnificent in design, though
the impression which it produces is perhaps rather sombre. Darkened
chapels, dimly lit with twinkling lights, throw out a subdued blaze
of splendour from their gorgeous _retablos_ and glinting brazen
railings. Above, the glorious Gothic arches meet in all their florid
beauty, like the trees in some heavenly avenue. Long rows of stalls and
seats--miracles of wood-carving, surmounted with spiry pinnacles of
the darkest oak, whose wondrous tracery seems like a canopy of heavy
lace spread upon them--surround the choir. Bare marbles gem the walls,
the air is stained with rich and solemn colouring from the gorgeous
windows, and the fragrant smoke of incense rolls in slow grey clouds
around the ancient columns.
The Royal Opera-house of Barcelona is one of the largest in the world,
and when it is filled has a most enchanting aspect. As the Barcelonese
are particularly partial to amusements, and, in fact, to all kinds of
gaiety, they have acquired such taste in self-decoration and personal
adornment, that a very fine general effect is produced when the great
_salle_ is packed to overflowing with the _beau monde_. At this
opera-house one sees a perfect galaxy of dark, and, we may say, blazing
beauty; for amidst the rich silks, the gorgeous satins, and the gay
ribbons of all colours, brilliant with sparkling jewels, there shines
out from every female face the yet brighter jewelry of large Spanish
eyes flashing the quick emotions of the human soul as the music falls,
stirring like a breeze, upon its chords. The number of uniforms, too,
glowing from all parts of the great theatre, render the scene very
gorgeous; and the manner in which the glittering multitude occasionally
rises excitedly _en masse_ to applaud and wave their kerchiefs, as they
spontaneously feel the sudden effect of some passage of unusual power,
is perfectly electric.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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