The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
When at last the train stopped in the outskirts of Gerona, we mounted
on the top of an omnibus and were whirled off through a boulevard of
plane trees, in which were groups of very _plain_ folk, who--it being a
_fiesta_ day--were dancing and whooping in large circles in a frenzied
manner that to us calm onlookers was very remarkable. The sight,
however, was brilliant and animating. Scarlet caps, red sashes, velvet
breeches, and jackets covered with flashing metal buttons, together
with the brilliant petticoats and embroidered bodices of the females,
produced a scene that was altogether of the most lively description.
Upon emerging from the avenue of plane trees, the town of Gerona
burst suddenly upon us. A wonderful old town it is! Talk about the
picturesque! Where are all the artists who frequent Wales, Margate,
Scarbro', and the over-done East, who give us perennial views of the
same, _usque ad nauseam_, until people need never have moved out
of London to know them as well as the inhabitants of those places
themselves? Why don't they travel hither, and put before the jaded
British public this intensely interesting and most extraordinary place?
Here they may find novelty and variety to please the most exacting
taste. The city as a whole is very old and quaint. Rickety houses
appear sometimes to be piled up indiscriminately upon heaps of gaunt
battlements and crumbling ramparts. The brown decaying walls tell many
a story of the violence and lawlessness of other times. The people of
the present day live in houses which are built of the remains of old
forts, and are constructed of anything that came to hand at the moment.
Rocks, stones, wood, dirt-heaps, mud, old bricks, old ruins, rubbish,
all have been raked together, and piled up confusedly into habitations;
and a most unique, heterogeneous, and dangerous mass they seem. Houses
and other buildings bend and bow to one another in all directions in a
very stiff and awkward manner, as if the whole place had been suddenly
paralysed in the midst of some general act of politeness. One edifice
props up another, as the lame support the lame. There is one church,
indeed, constructed out of some old convent walls of great solidity,
that supports four feeble houses which lean bodily upon it, and without
it would inevitably fall down like so many card-houses. It requires
some judgment to walk about with security in the interior of many of
these charming dwellings, the strange old rooms necessitating great
steadiness of gait and correct judgment of eye, for the floors are not
always so level as one might desire. There are heights and hollows
which it is advisable to avoid as much as possible if one would escape
painful bruises.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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