The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Leaving this very recommendatory gentleman, we turned to study the
objects of local interest. Here, we thought, as well as everywhere
else in Spain, there must be some interesting antiquity, something to
remind us of the great men and mighty deeds of the past; and being of
an inquiring mind we soon discovered that it was near Almanza that the
army of Philip V., commanded by Berwick, gained a victory over the
troops of the Archduke of Austria in 1707.
We had made considerable progress, and were now about seventy miles
from our journey's end,
With the morning upon us so fresh and fair,
While a breeze sings soft through the ambient air,
People wonder to find it there,--
In a place so hot as Almanza.
About twenty miles beyond that place, as well as we could judge in
our rapid course, the vegetation began to improve, and the olives
appeared to have a fresher hue, a more vigorous growth. The country,
too, became more picturesque, diversified as it was occasionally by
rocky hills. We passed, also, what appeared to be deserted villages.
For a time, however, this part of the country could not be seen to
great advantage, as we had frequently to pass through dark tunnels and
deep cuttings. Here and there was an attempt at a vineyard or two, in
which the stunted shrubs seemed to grow with great difficulty among the
stones and sand. One village which we remarked, pitched on a mountain
slope, seemed to be the very place for a band of bandits. The gaps of
savage highlands were backed in the distance by purple lines of remote
scenery, pencilled, as it seemed, along the sky. The nakedness of the
hills was concealed by the pine trees with which their slopes were
covered.
The next place we reached was the old brown, tumble-down town of
Mogente, basking in a sunlit valley, where grow Indian corn and the
prickly pear. Low, whitewashed, terraced _cortijos_, or farm-houses,
are scattered upon the rocky slopes, while high over the vale topple
some broken towers of the ancient Moor. Onwards we went, across
ravines, dry watercourses, and long, straight, white roads, bordered
by stone-pines, the olive, and the mulberry. Country people of an
Arab-looking aspect, brown, red-sashed, and semi-nude, were jogging
along in the sun and dust on sturdy, gaily-dressed mules. Bold peaks,
topped with ruined castles, frequently appeared suspended above us as
we moved onwards at a rapid rate. The abundant vegetation afforded
evidence that we were now in the midst of a more luxuriant soil; while
from across the wide garden-like plains, distinguished by that long
dark line of sapphire in the distance, the breath of the Mediterranean
at length fell soothingly upon the brow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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