The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The first thing we did was to start in search of a _fonda_, with a
couple of brown boys in red caps carrying our boxes. After passing
along the strong-looking ramparts, and through one or two clean,
picturesque streets, in which were some mosque-like buildings turned
into barracks, we went under a ruined arch, through which, as in a
frame, was seen a beautiful glimpse of distant plains and cloud-capped
mountains. We then pulled up at a whitewashed building, which, we were
informed, was an establishment entitled _La Fonda de las Tres Palomas_,
so named after one of the peculiarities of Palma, and, indeed, of most
towns of Oriental descent, viz., the pigeons which are seen everywhere
whirling about in the air and walking in the streets, completely tame
and unmolested.
The Hotel of the Three Pigeons, although tolerably clean, was
lamentably deficient in matters of comfort. The bedrooms were simply
whitewashed cells. A narrow bedstead, with a mattress stuffed with the
leaves of Indian corn, one chair, and a little slender iron tripod,
about three feet high, holding a diminutive basin, constituted the
furniture. When the British mania for ablution occasionally overtook
us, a pint of brown warm water was brought carefully in a coffee-pot,
and poured slowly, as if it were molten gold, into the little basin;
while the waiter waited to see what we should do with it, and how apply
it for personal use. And well he might; for he seemed to be rather a
stranger to the process himself. The saloon and reading-room of the
hotel was the kitchen; and there the guests assisted at the cooking of
their meals, which, however, was, perhaps, about the best thing they
could do, as, upon one occasion, the _chef_, in his anxious desire to
please, entirely lost his presence of mind, and was about to boil the
woodcocks we had ordered for dinner. Why, at the _fondas_ of Majorca,
one should find the napkins which ought to be used at dinner placed
on the washing-stand for the purposes of ablution, and the towels
which should be upon the washing-stand placed on the plates at the
dinner-table, will probably remain a mystery, of which it would be vain
to seek for any explanation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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