The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
and its capital, whether as the home of the Moor, as the abode and
settlement of the numerous knightly followers of the royal conqueror,
Don Jayme, or as the residence of luxurious merchant princes who made
this fair isle their home and the dépôt of their argosies, at the
period when the Baleares were in the full highway to the gorgeous
East, before Vasco da Gama had discovered the route to the Indies by
the Cape of Good Hope.[27] Buildings of surpassing beauty--especially
the Lonja, overlooking the harbour, once the exchange, or _bourse_, and
place of public meeting of these busy communities, and the style of
which is the most exquisite Gothic--attest the former combination of
taste and opulence existing amongst them.
Amidst the habitations of the lower classes we always found the modern
buildings raised upon the broken ruins of Moorish structures; and the
substrata of Moorish masonry never having been reduced to any general
level, there is an aspect of inequality, a rise and fall in all the
lines of the town, from whatever point it be observed, which is most
picturesque. Valetta, perhaps, is the only other city whose general
appearance is similar in this respect. Decay, however, is speeding on
with rapid though stealthy pace, and these remnants of the past must
soon disappear.
The city is surrounded by fortifications; but the most modern
in use--those of Philip II.--though still massive, would be,
notwithstanding the show of garrison within, as effete against an enemy
as the Saracenic works, now crumbling away, upon which they are built.
Although visited by occasional tempests, which gather amongst the
highlands and sweep over the island, Majorca enjoys a most luxuriant
climate. The sun looks down throughout the year from a heaven of
serenest blue. The great heat of the southern summer is tempered by the
fresh sea breeze, and the verdant mountain slopes and valleys offer a
cool and shady protection from the rays of a powerful sun. The soil of
the plains is rich, and, cultivated by the industry of the hardy island
race, yields most luxuriant crops of corn and flax, while the orange,
olive, and the carob grow in the wildest luxuriance.
During the summer there is a great scarcity of water; but the rains
of autumn and winter are collected for the irrigation of the land in
enormous reservoirs, which contain sufficient water to last throughout
the dry season. Each landholder has his fields then flooded in turn,
at certain intervals, upon payment of a water-rate. The fertility of
the island, coupled with the honesty and industry of the inhabitants,
renders living cheap; and beyond the walls of the semi-Spanish capital,
extortion, even in the faintest form, is unknown throughout the length
and breadth of Majorca.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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