Switzerland; Switzerland -- Politics and government -- 1815-
it springs from the circumstances, situation, and primitive habits
of the people, from the genius of the place, and cannot with safety
be abandoned. When usage and systematic opinion find themselves in
opposition, the latter must give way. You must never take away from a
democratic society the practical exercise of its privileges. To give
such exercise a direction consistent with the tranquillity of the
state, is the part of true political wisdom.”
Through a strange and happy combination of circumstances this ancient
custom may still be seen in the Cantons of Uri, Unterwalden, Glarus,
and Appenzell. The homely peasants who tend their own cows and goats
upon the mountain-side, and by patient industry raise their little
crops from the narrow patches of soil, hemmed in by rock and glacier,
meet to discuss the affairs of their Canton, to make its laws, and to
swear to observe them; a parliament of Swiss peasants, differing little
in manner or habits from their forefathers of the thirteenth century.
It affords a rare study in politics; an example of pure democracy
such as poets might imagine, and speculative philosophers design.
It was my privilege to have seen one of these primitive assemblies,
held on the hill-side market-place of Trogen, the seat of government
of Appenzell-ausser-Rhoden. Trogen is in the rolling, grassy, breezy
Appenzell Alps, the home of primitive virtue, the stronghold of Swiss
simplicity, honesty, and courage, and the region of light hearts and
merry tongues. It was the first Sunday in May, from which day the
Appenzellers date all the events of the year. Leaving St. Gallen for
Trogen, some seven or eight miles distant, in a carriage, about nine
o’clock in the morning of a bright and beautiful day, the main road
and the many branches that entered it, as far as the eye could reach,
were full of peasants making their way on foot to Trogen; every man
carrying in one hand the family umbrella, and in the other an old sword
or ancient rapier, which, on this occasion the law at once commands
him to carry and forbids him to draw, and which is brought out for
this day only from its dignified seclusion; each one wearing a short
green coat, with a stiff high collar, and a silk hat, both bearing
unmistakable evidence of being venerable heirlooms. The convening of
the Landsgemeinde was announced at twelve o’clock M. by heralds, as
a drum and fife corps, with a wonderful uniform of black and white,
the cantonal colors. There were estimated to be present six to seven
thousand voters. No provision was made for seating them, and all stood
during the proceedings, which lasted nearly three hours. The assembly
opened with a silent prayer, the Landammann setting the example, and
instantaneously the thousands of heads were uncovered and bowed, with
an indistinct but audible wave of sound from the speechless lips; then
a national song in which all joined; the Landammann and his colleagues
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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