Then a final rinsing and drying is in order. Many operators use a final
washing with alcohol of at least 90 per cent strength which is allowed
to evaporate with little or no wiping. Alcohol denatured with methyl
alcohol serves well if strong enough but beware denatured alcohol of
unknown composition. Others have used petroleum naphtha and things of
that sort. At the present time these commercial petroleum products are
extremely uncertain in quality, like gasoline, being obtained, Heaven
knows how, from the breaking down of heavier petroleum products.
If pure petroleum ether can be obtained it answers quite as well as
alcohol, but unless the volatile fluid is pure it may leave streaks.
Ordinarily neither has to be used, as after the proper wiping the glass
comes perfectly clean. This done the glass can be replaced on the pad
whence it came and its mate put through the same process.
Flint glass is more liable to spot than the crown, but the crown is
by no means immune against the deterioration of the surface, perhaps
incipient devitrification, and during the war many objectives “went
blind” from unexplained action of this character. As a rule the soap
and water treatment applied with care leaves even a pretty hard looking
specimen of objective in fairly good condition except for the scratches
which previous users have put upon it.
Then if the spacing pieces, usually of tinfoil, are not torn or
corroded they can be put back into place, the one lens superimposed
upon the other, and the pair put back into the cell by dropping it
gently over them and re-inverting the whole, taking care this time to
have soft cloth or lens paper under the fingers. Then the retaining
ring can be put into place again and the objective is ready for testing
or use as the case may be.
If the spacers are corroded or damaged it may be necessary to replace
them with very thin tinfoil cut the same size and shape, leaving
however a little extra length to turn down over the edge of the lower
lens. They are fastened in place on the extreme edge only by the merest
touch of mucilage, shellac or Canada balsam, whichever comes to hand.
The one important thing is that the spacers should be entirely free of
the sticky material where they lap over the edge of the lens to perform
the separation. This lap is generally not over 1/16 of an inch, not
enough to show at the outside of the objective when it is in its cell.
When the upper lens is lightly pressed down into place, after the gum
or shellac is dry, all the projecting portion can be trimmed away with
a sharp pen-knife leaving simply the spacers in the appointed places
from which the original ones were removed.
Some little space has been given to this matter of cleaning objectives,
as in many situations objectives accumulate dirt rather rapidly and it
is highly desirable for the user to learn how to perform the simple but
careful task of cleansing them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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