Before them was the nave of the Lower Church, with its dark-storied
chapels on either hand, itself bathed in a golden twilight, with figures
of peasants and friars walking in it, vaguely transfigured. But the
sanctuary beyond, the altar, the walls, and low-groined roof flamed and
burned. An exposition of the Sacrament was going on. Hundreds of slender
candles arranged upon and about the altar in a blazing pyramid drew from
the habitual darkness in which they hide themselves Giotto's thrice
famous frescos; or quickened on the walls, like flowers gleaming in the
dawn, the loveliness of quiet faces, angel and saint and mother, the
beauty of draped folds at their simplest and broadest, a fairy magic of
wings and trumpets, of halos and crowns.
Now the two strangers understood why they had found Assisi itself
deserted; emptied of its folk this quiet eve. Assisi was here, in the
church which is at once the home and daily spectacle of her people. Why
stay away among the dull streets and small houses of the hill-side, when
there were these pleasures of eye and ear, this sensuous medley of light
and color, this fellowship and society, this dramatic symbolism and
movement, waiting for them below, in the church of their fathers?
So that all were here, old and young, children and youths, fathers just
home from their work, mothers with their babies, girls with their
sweethearts. Their happy yet reverent familiarity with the old church,
their gay and natural participation in the ceremony that was going on,
made on Diana's alien mind the effect of a great multitude crowding to
salute their King. There, in the midst, surrounded by kneeling acolytes
and bending priests, shone the Mystic Presence. Each man and woman and
child, as they passed out of the shadow into the light, bent the knee,
then parted to either side, each to his own place, like courtiers well
used to the ways of a beautiful and familiar pageantry.
An old peasant in a blouse noticed the English ladies, beckoned to them,
and with a kind of gracious authority led them through dark chapels,
till he had placed them in the open space that spread round the flaming
altar, and found them seats on the stone ledge that girdles the walls.
An old woman saying her beads looked up smiling and made room. A baby or
two ran out over the worn marble flags, gazed up at the gilt-and-silver
angels hovering among the candles of the altar, and was there softly
captured--wide-eyed, and laughing in a quiet ecstasy--by its
watchful mother.
Diana sat down, bewildered by the sheer beauty of a marvellous and
incomparable sight. Above her head shone the Giotto frescos, the
immortal four, in which the noblest legend of Catholicism finds its
loveliest expression, as it were the script, itself imperishable, of a
dying language, to which mankind will soon have lost the key.
Yet only dying, perhaps, as the tongue of Cicero died--to give birth to
the new languages of Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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