The Theory and Practice of BrewingCombrune, Michael
Science
The Theory and Practice of Brewing
Combrune, Michael
Brewing
These four modes of resolving the grain, being the fundamental elements
on which almost every specie of drink is brewed, I must observe, the
two first may be said to be an exact imitation of natural wines, in
forming which, the principles we have laid down may fully be applied.
The third is the effect of necessity, by which we are deprived of that
time nature directs for properly producing fermented liquors, and
where we are subjected to many disadvantageous circumstances; to guard
against the consequences of which, we must rely, in some measure, upon
opinion formed from observation alone; and the fourth may be said to be
art too precipitately carried on. Before I treat of them separately, it
is requisite to mention a few general rules applicable to all.
In the enquiry we made of the means which nature employs to form the
juices of grapes, we found two remarkable circumstances: the first, a
necessary lesser heat for the production of the fruit, and the second,
a much greater for its maturation; the former useful to incline the
must to fermentation, the latter to raise therein such oils as should
maintain it for some time in a sound state. But in all wines, an
evenness of taste is requisite to affect the palate with an elegant
sensation; and it may be observed, the autumn and spring heats being
nearly equal; so the first juices of grapes are formed by almost,
uniform impressions; the summer heats, though stronger, act upon the
same principle; for though the grapes remain upon the vine some part
of the autumn, perhaps in this space they gain little more than the
juices prepared by the summer’s sun: from whence the tastes of wine are
more simple than otherwise they would be. Thus are we directed, that
a first wort shall have the least share of heat of the whole brewing,
and the last wort the greatest; intermediate worts; if any; must be
proportioned to both, and if several mashes of extracts are made to
compose a wort, these must be equal as to their heat, being careful at
the same time to preserve to the process the medium heat which is to
govern the whole. By this means, we shall obtain our intended purpose;
and place into the drink one and the same smooth taste.
In the table[12] shewing the different effects produced in the grain
by the different degrees of heat, the numbers, with respect to beers,
express, not only the mean of the degrees of dryness the malt had, with
those also of heat in the extracting liquors, but also is implied the
power communicated by the hops, that is, it imparts to us, the idea of
the whole combination.
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