Alas, that the only sound from the little hill-platform, the embowered
walks, should be the dull rolling of wheels--motors, coaches,
omnibuses--in the road below! That is the shadow of his greatness. It
is a pitiable thought that one of the fruits of his genius is that it
has made his holy retreat fashionable. The villas rise in rows along
the edges of the clear lakes, under the craggy fell-sides, where the
feathery ashes root among the mimic precipices. A stream of
chattering, vacuous, indifferent tourists pours listlessly along the
road from _table-d'hote_ to _table-d'hote_. The turbid outflow of the
vulgar world seems a profanation of these august haunts. One hopes
despairingly that something of the spirit of lonely beauty speaks to
these trivial heads and hearts. But is there consolation in this?
What would the poet himself have felt if he could have foreseen it all?
I descended the hill-road and crossed the valley highway; it was full
of dust; the vehicles rolled along, crowded with men smoking cigars and
reading newspapers, tired women, children whose idea of pleasure had
been to fill their hands with ferns and flowers torn from cranny and
covert. I climbed the little hill opposite the great Scar; its green
towering head, with its feet buried in wood, the hardy trees straggling
up the front wherever they could get a hold among the grey crags, rose
in sweet grandeur opposite to me. I threaded tracks of shimmering
fern, out of which the buzzing flies rose round me; I went by silent,
solitary places where the springs soak out of the moorland, while I
pondered over the bewildering ways of the world. The life, the ideals
of the great poet, set in the splendid framework of the great hills,
seemed so majestic and admirable a thing. But the visible results--the
humming of silly strangers round his sacred solitudes, the
contaminating influence of commercial exploitation--made one
fruitlessly and hopelessly melancholy.
But even so the hills were silent; the sun went down in a great glory
of golden haze among the shadowy ridges. The valleys lay out at my
feet, the rolling woodland, the dark fells. There fell a mood of
strange yearning upon me, a yearning for the peaceful secret that, as
the orange sunset slowly waned, the great hills seemed to guard and
hold. What was it that was going on there, what solemn pageant, what
sweet mystery, that I could only desire to behold and apprehend? I
know not! I only know that if I could discern it, if I could tell it,
the world would stand to listen; its littleness, its meanness, would
fade in that august light; the peace of God would go swiftly and
secretly abroad.
XXV
Dorsetshire
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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