To-day I had a singular pleasure heightened by an intermingled
strangeness and even terror--qualities which bring out the quality of
pleasure in the same way that a bourdon in a pedal-point passage brings
out the quality of what a German would, I think, call the _over-work_.
I was at _Canterbury_, where the great central tower is wreathed with
scaffolding, and has a dim, blurred outline from a distance, as though
it were being rapidly shaken to and fro. I found a friendly and
communicable man who offered to take me over it; we climbed a dizzy
little winding stair, with bright glimpses at intervals, through
loop-holes, of sunlight and wheeling birds; then we crept along the top
of a vaulted space with great pockets of darkness to right and left.
Soon we were in the gallery of the lantern, from which we could see the
little people crawling on the floor beneath, like slow insects. And
then we mounted a short ladder which took us out of one of the great
belfry windows, on to the lowest of the planked galleries. What a
frail and precarious structure it seemed: the planks bent beneath our
feet. And here came the first exquisite delight--that of being close
to the precipitous face of the tower, of seeing the carved work which
had never been seen close at hand since its erection except by the
jackdaws and pigeons. I was moved and touched by observing how fine
and delicate all the sculpture was. There were rows and rows of little
heraldic devices, which from below could appear only as tiny fretted
points; yet every petal of rose or _fleur-de-lys_ was as scrupulously
and cleanly cut as if it had been meant to be seen close at hand; a
waste of power, I suppose; but what a pretty and delicate waste! and
done, I felt, in faithful days, when the carving was done as much to
delight, if possible, the eye of God, as to please the eye of man.
Higher and higher we went, till at last we reached the parapet. And
then by a dizzy perpendicular ladder to which I committed myself in
faith, we reached a little platform on the very top of one of the
pinnacles. The vane had just been fixed, and the stone was splashed
with the oozing solder. And now came the delight of the huge view all
round: the wooden heights, the rolling hills; old church towers rose
from flowering orchards; a mansion peeped through immemorial trees; and
far to the north-east we could see the white cliff of _Pegwell Bay_;
endeared to me through the beautiful picture by Dyce, where the pale
crags rise from the reefs green with untorn weeds. There on the
horizon I could see shadowy sails on the steely sea-line.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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