Asia -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Mongols -- History; Polo, Marco, 1254-1323?; Voyages and travels
NOTE 4.—From Baudas, or Baldac, _i.e._ Baghdad, certain of these
rich silk and gold brocades were called _Baldachini_, or in English
_Baudekins_. From their use in the state canopies and umbrellas
of Italian dignitaries, the word _Baldacchino_ has come to mean a
canopy, even when architectural. [_Baldekino, baldacchino_, was
at first entirely made of silk, but afterwards silk was mixed
(_sericum mixtum_) with cotton or thread. When Hulaku conquered
Baghdad part of the tribute was to be paid with that kind of stuff.
Later on, says Heyd (II. p. 697), it was also manufactured in the
province of Ahwaz, at Damas and at Cyprus; it was carried as far
as France and England. Among the articles sent from Baghdad to
Okkodai Khan, mentioned in the _Yüan ch’ao pi shi_ (made in the
14th century), quoted by Bretschneider (_Med. Res._ II. p. 124),
we note: _Nakhut_ (a kind of gold brocade), _Nachidut_ (a silk
stuff interwoven with gold), _Dardas_ (a stuff embroidered in
gold). Bretschneider (p. 125) adds: “With respect to _nakhut_ and
_nachidut_, I may observe that these words represent the Mongol
plural form of _nakh_ and _nachetti_.... I may finally mention that
in the _Yüan shi_, ch. lxxviii. (on official dresses), a stuff,
_na-shi-shi_, is repeatedly named, and the term is explained there
by _kin kin_ (gold brocade).”—H. C.] The stuffs called _Nasich_
and _Nac_ are again mentioned by our traveller below (ch. lix.).
We only know that they were of silk and gold, as he implies here,
and as Ibn Batuta tells us, who mentions _Nakh_ several times and
_Nasíj_ once. The latter is also mentioned by Rubruquis (_Nasic_)
as a present made to him at the Kaan’s court. And Pegolotti speaks
of both _nacchi_ and _nacchetti_ of silk and gold, the latter
apparently answering to _Nasich_. _Nac, Nacques, Nachiz, Nacíz,
Nasís_, appear in accounts and inventories of the 14th century,
French and English. (See _Dictionnaire des Tissus_, II. 199, and
_Douet d’Arcq, Comptes de l’Argenterie des Rois de France_, etc.,
334.) We find no mention of _Nakh_ or _Nasíj_ among the stuffs
detailed in the _Aín Akbari_, so they must have been obsolete
in the 16th century. [Cf. Heyd, _Com. du Levant_, II. p. 698;
_Nacco_, nachetto, comes from the Arabic _nakh_ (_nekh_); _nassit_
(_nasith_) from the Arabic _nécidj_.—H. C.] _Quermesis_ or Cramoisy
derived its name from the Kermes insect (Ar. _Kirmiz_) found on
_Quercus coccifera_, now supplanted by cochineal. The stuff so
called is believed to have been originally a crimson velvet, but
apparently, like the mediæval _Purpura_, if not identical with it,
it came to indicate a tissue rather than a colour. Thus Fr.-Michel
quotes velvet of vermeil cramoisy, of violet, and of blue
cramoisy, and _pourpres_ of a variety of colours, though he says
he has never met with _pourpre blanche_. I may, however, point to
Plano Carpini (p.
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