Wearing an old suit, I duly took a train early one fair morning in
autumn, from Charing Cross, and when I got off at Folkestone Central
Station, Adams, a stocky, cheerful man who seemed to be about forty,
was waiting for me. He had a little car waiting outside the station,
and when he got into it, he introduced me to an assistant sitting in
the driver's seat named Jack Burgess. "Jack's grandfather was a surface
worker at the tunnel workings at Shakespeare Cliff," Adams said as
Burgess started the car up. "Jack was just telling me that he remembers
his grandfather telling him, when he was a boy, about Lord Palmerston
coming down to visit the tunnel in 1881. The old chap remembered that
the food that was brought into the tunnel for parties of visitors from
the Lord Warden Hotel at Dover came in hay boxes—that is, in big
wicker boxes interlined with a thick layer of hay to keep the food
warm."
Burgess drove us through the outer part of Folkestone toward the sea at
a pretty good clip, with the little car buzzing away like a high-speed
sewing machine, and in a very little time, after climbing up a long,
gentle slope by the back of the cliffs, we drew up on the heights of
East Cliff, a kind of promontory within Eastwear Bay, which lies to
the north-east of Folkestone Harbor. There, in two broad curves to the
left and right of us, the precipitous face of the white chalk cliffs
gleamed, like huge ruined walls with grassed-over rubble piled about
their base, in hazy sunlight. Far below us, and stretching away into
the haze, lay the Channel, gray and, for the time being, pretty calm.
A hundred feet or so from where our car stopped was a massive round
stone tower, its sides tapering in toward the top like a child's sand
castle; two similar towers lay some distance from us in the direction
of Folkestone. These, Adams explained, were Martello towers, formerly
cannon-bearing fortifications that were installed in prominent places
all along the Dover-Folkestone coastal area during the invasion scares
early in the nineteenth century to repel surprise landings by the
troops of Napoleon Bonaparte. (The three Martello towers comprised
the main artillery defenses of Folkestone Harbor even as late in the
century as the time of the great tunnel controversy in the eighties.)
Then he pointed to the cliffs stretching to the north-east. "You see
that large white building on top of the cliff almost at the very end of
the bay? That's Abbots Cliff, and the tunnel is at the base of it," he
said. "We'll take you down that way in a couple of minutes, but first
I'd like to show you something that may interest you."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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