Adams and I walked back to the car. As we did so, he revealed himself
as being pro-tunnel. "It's a tragic thing, this tunnel business, I
think. If the tunnel had been built forty or fifty years ago, just
think of what an asset to Europe it would have been," he said. We
packed ourselves in, and Burgess drove us down a very rough, narrow
road to the level of the railroad line. There, by a maintenance shed,
a small, thin workman was waiting for us. He was wearing an old cloth
peaked cap, a white duffel coat, and rubber knee boots, and by his feet
he had ready-lighted Tilley lamps—similar in appearance to miners'
lamps but operated by kerosene under pressure, like a Primus stove.
Adams and Burgess jumped out of the car, and Burgess unlocked and
opened up the rear trunk. I got out of the car, too. Then the workman,
whom Adams addressed as Jim, disappeared briefly into the shed and came
out with a pile of knee boots, which he began flinging into the car
trunk. "We'll be needing these," Adams remarked to me. Next Jim brought
out an enormous wrench, at least two feet long, and slung that on top
of the protesting rubber boots, and then he came up with an armful of
duffel coats, which he handed around. We put them on and all of us got
into the car; the little workman wordlessly, with a wide gaptoothed
grin, squeezed into the back seat with me and settled back with the
two big lighted Tilley lamps on his lap. The lamps gave off a gentle
roaring sound, like subdued blowtorches, and they gave off heat that
warmed the whole back of the car.
We drove off down a narrow, steep, tortuously winding, and very rugged
road, through a kind of wilderness of concrete rubble and piles of
old heavy wooden construction beams, toward the base of the cliffs,
and when we finally got there, we continued along the wide top of a
concrete sea wall for a considerable distance until the wall suddenly
narrowed and the car could go no farther.
We all got out, and Adams, Burgess, and I took off our shoes and put
on the knee boots that Burgess got out of the trunk; and, with Jim and
Burgess leading the way and bearing between them the glowing Tilley
lamps and the giant wrench, we continued on foot along the sea wall,
now as narrow as the sidewalk of a small city street. The chalk cliffs
towered perhaps a couple of hundred feet above us. "The tunnel is about
three-quarters of a mile ahead along the sea wall," Adams remarked
as he walked beside me, and as we went along he explained that his
primary job at British Railways was the design of sea defenses between
Folkestone and Dover to combat erosion. "It's a good job you didn't
pick a later time in the year to visit the tunnel," he went on. "This
sea wall would hardly be negotiable on foot when the water's rough, and
in winter, with the sou'westers blowing in especially, we have some
real shockers."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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