Fanchette, the cook, was the only person in Issoudun who thought it
wrong that Flore Brazier should be queen over Jean-Jacques Rouget and
his home. She protested against the immorality of the connection, and
took a tone of injured virtue; the fact being that she was humiliated
by having, at her age, a crab-girl for a mistress,--a child who had been
brought barefoot into the house. Fanchette owned three hundred francs
a year in the Funds, for the doctor made her invest her savings in that
way, and he had left her as much more in an annuity; she could therefore
live at her ease without the necessity of working, and she quitted the
house nine months after the funeral of her old master, April 15, 1806.
That date may indicate, to a perspicacious observer, the epoch at which
Flore Brazier ceased to be an honest girl.
The Rabouilleuse, clever enough to foresee Fanchette’s probable
defection,--there is nothing like the exercise of power for teaching
policy,--was already resolved to do without a servant. For six months
she had studied, without seeming to do so, the culinary operations that
made Fanchette a cordon-bleu worthy of cooking for a doctor. In the
matter of choice living, doctors are on a par with bishops. The doctor
had brought Fanchette’s talents to perfection. In the provinces the lack
of occupation and the monotony of existence turn all activity of mind
towards the kitchen. People do not dine as luxuriously in the country
as they do in Paris, but they dine better; the dishes are meditated upon
and studied. In rural regions we often find some Careme in petticoats,
some unrecognized genius able to serve a simple dish of haricot-beans
worthy of the nod with which Rossini welcomed a perfectly-rendered
measure.
When studying for his degree in Paris, the doctor had followed a
course of chemistry under Rouelle, and had gathered some ideas which he
afterwards put to use in the chemistry of cooking. His memory is famous
in Issoudun for certain improvements little known outside of Berry. It
was he who discovered that an omelette is far more delicate when the
whites and the yolks are not beaten together with the violence which
cooks usually put into the operation. He considered that the whites
should be beaten to a froth and the yolks gently added by degrees;
moreover a frying-pan should never be used, but a “cagnard” of porcelain
or earthenware. The “cagnard” is a species of thick dish standing on
four feet, so that when it is placed on the stove the air circulates
underneath and prevents the fire from cracking it. In Touraine the
“cagnard” is called a “cauquemarre.” Rabelais, I think, speaks of a
“cauquemarre” for cooking cockatrice eggs, thus proving the antiquity of
the utensil. The doctor had also found a way to prevent the tartness
of browned butter; but his secret, which unluckily he kept to his own
kitchen, has been lost.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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