The ugly-girl papers : $b or, Hints for the toiletPower, S. D. (Susan Dunning)
Science
The ugly-girl papers : $b or, Hints for the toilet
Power, S. D. (Susan Dunning)
Beauty, Personal; Women -- Health and hygiene
No wonder French cosmetics are so highly valued, when their composition
embraces such a variety of pleasing ingredients. Thyme, anise, and
saffron seem homely herbs for a woman’s use, but they assisted at
every toilet among the Greek women of old; and Rhodora wove the crocus
(meadow-saffron) with the rose, and fennel among her jasmines, without
a thought such as these things give us of sick-teas and home-made dyes.
Why should herbs of such excellent renown lose the poetry that belongs
to them? Mingled in variety with ambergris and orange flowers, they
give body to a perfume rich enough to have satisfied Cleopatra.
If this recipe is complicated, what will be said to the next,
compounded by South American women, and fashionable in Paris not so
very long after the time of Josephine, who may have patronized, or,
indeed, introduced this souvenir of creole coquetry. Madame Celnart
says of it, “Only the Tartuffes of coquetry could blame the Mexican
pomade,” whose proportions indicate that the formula came straight from
the perfumer’s hands, and is therefore correct. Any one who wishes to
try it can reduce the measure to suit herself:
Extract of cocoa, sixty-four ounces; oil of noisette, thirty-two
ounces; oil of ben, thirty-two ounces; oil of vanilla, two ounces;
white balsam of Peru, one drachm; benzoin flowers, half a drachm;
civet, ditto; neroli, one drachm; essence of rose, one drachm; oil
of clove flowers, one ounce; citron and bergamot waters, each half a
pint. Steep the vanilla in the cocoa butter eight days in a hot place;
dissolve the balsam in half a glass of alcohol, with the benzoin and
civet, and add the spirit of clove. Mix the essence of rose and neroli
in the oils of ben and noisette, and beat the whole forcibly together
in a large marble or china bowl.
Creole women spread this paste on their smooth skins, which the oil
of cocoa softens and moistens, while the delightful changing odor
is absorbed, till their forms are like living, dusky, but perfumed
marbles. These recipes are given not so much for imitation, or
to contribute to the lore of perfumers this side the water, as
curiosities of national arts and feminine vanity. Where in our country
would we find the ingredients of the celebrated _Eau de Stahl_, known
to the Parisian chemists forty years ago? Its compound was as follows:
Alcohol, nine litres; rose-water, three litres; the root of Spanish
pellitory, five ounces; gallingale root, three ounces; tormentil, three
ounces; balsam of Peru, three ounces; cinnamon, five drachms; rue, one
ounce; ratania, eight ounces. Powder the whole, and put in alcohol;
shake well, and leave to macerate six days. Pour off, and let it stand
twenty-four hours to clear, after which add essential oil of mint, one
and a half drachms; powdered cochineal, four drachms. Leave to infuse
anew three days; filter through filtering-paper, and decant. Use for a
tooth-wash, for washing the face, or for baths.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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