Great Britain -- Social conditions -- 19th century; London (England) -- Description and travel
Indeed, I look upon Gray’s Inn generally as one of the most depressing
institutions in brick and mortar, known to the children of men. Can
anything be more dreary than its arid Square, Sahara Desert of the law,
with the ugly old tiled-topped tenements, the dirty windows, the bills To
Let, To Let, the door-posts inscribed like gravestones, the crazy gateway
giving upon the filthy Lane, the scowling, iron-barred prison-like
passage into Verulam-buildings, the mouldy red-nosed ticket-porters with
little coffin plates, and why with aprons, the dry, hard, atomy-like
appearance of the whole dust-heap? When my uncommercial travels tend to
this dismal spot, my comfort is its rickety state. Imagination gloats
over the fulness of time when the staircases shall have quite tumbled
down—they are daily wearing into an ill-savoured powder, but have not
quite tumbled down yet—when the last old prolix bencher all of the olden
time, shall have been got out of an upper window by means of a Fire
Ladder, and carried off to the Holborn Union; when the last clerk shall
have engrossed the last parchment behind the last splash on the last of
the mud-stained windows, which, all through the miry year, are pilloried
out of recognition in Gray’s Inn-lane. Then, shall a squalid little
trench, with rank grass and a pump in it, lying between the coffee-house
and South-square, be wholly given up to cats and rats, and not, as now,
have its empire divided between those animals and a few briefless
bipeds—surely called to the Bar by voices of deceiving spirits, seeing
that they are wanted there by no mortal—who glance down, with eyes better
glazed than their casements, from their dreary and lacklustre rooms.
Then shall the way Nor’ Westward, now lying under a short grim colonnade
where in summer-time pounce flies from law-stationering windows into the
eyes of laymen, be choked with rubbish and happily become impassable.
Then shall the gardens where turf, trees, and gravel wear a legal livery
of black, run rank, and pilgrims go to Gorhambury to see Bacon’s effigy
as he sat, and not come here (which in truth they seldom do) to see where
he walked. Then, in a word, shall the old-established vendor of
periodicals sit alone in his little crib of a shop behind the Holborn
Gate, like that lumbering Marius among the ruins of Carthage, who has sat
heavy on a thousand million of similes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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