Great Britain -- Social conditions -- 19th century; London (England) -- Description and travel
A screech, a bell, and two red eyes come gliding down the Admiralty Pier
with a smoothness of motion rendered more smooth by the heaving of the
boat. The sea makes noises against the pier, as if several hippopotami
were lapping at it, and were prevented by circumstances over which they
had no control from drinking peaceably. We, the boat, become violently
agitated—rumble, hum, scream, roar, and establish an immense family
washing-day at each paddle-box. Bright patches break out in the train as
the doors of the post-office vans are opened, and instantly stooping
figures with sacks upon their backs begin to be beheld among the piles,
descending as it would seem in ghostly procession to Davy Jones’s Locker.
The passengers come on board; a few shadowy Frenchmen, with hatboxes
shaped like the stoppers of gigantic case-bottles; a few shadowy Germans
in immense fur coats and boots; a few shadowy Englishmen prepared for the
worst and pretending not to expect it. I cannot disguise from my
uncommercial mind the miserable fact that we are a body of outcasts; that
the attendants on us are as scant in number as may serve to get rid of us
with the least possible delay; that there are no night-loungers
interested in us; that the unwilling lamps shiver and shudder at us; that
the sole object is to commit us to the deep and abandon us. Lo, the two
red eyes glaring in increasing distance, and then the very train itself
has gone to bed before we are off!
What is the moral support derived by some sea-going amateurs from an
umbrella? Why do certain voyagers across the Channel always put up that
article, and hold it up with a grim and fierce tenacity? A
fellow-creature near me—whom I only know to _be_ a fellow-creature,
because of his umbrella: without which he might be a dark bit of cliff,
pier, or bulkbead—clutches that instrument with a desperate grasp, that
will not relax until he lands at Calais. Is there any analogy, in
certain constitutions, between keeping an umbrella up, and keeping the
spirits up? A hawser thrown on board with a flop replies ‘Stand by!’
‘Stand by, below!’ ‘Half a turn a head!’ ‘Half a turn a head!’ ‘Half
speed!’ ‘Half speed!’ ‘Port!’ ‘Port!’ ‘Steady!’ ‘Steady!’ ‘Go on!’
‘Go on!’
A stout wooden wedge driven in at my right temple and out at my left, a
floating deposit of lukewarm oil in my throat, and a compression of the
bridge of my nose in a blunt pair of pincers,—these are the personal
sensations by which I know we are off, and by which I shall continue to
know it until I am on the soil of France. My symptoms have scarcely
established themselves comfortably, when two or three skating shadows
that have been trying to walk or stand, get flung together, and other two
or three shadows in tarpaulin slide with them into corners and cover them
up. Then the South Foreland lights begin to hiccup at us in a way that
bodes no good.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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