Great Britain -- Social conditions -- 19th century; London (England) -- Description and travel
I never wanted to know the names of the churches to which I went, and to
this hour I am profoundly ignorant in that particular of at least
nine-tenths of them. Indeed, saying that I know the church of old
GOWER’S tomb (he lies in effigy with his head upon his books) to be the
church of Saint Saviour’s, Southwark; and the church of MILTON’S tomb to
be the church of Cripplegate; and the church on Cornhill with the great
golden keys to be the church of Saint Peter; I doubt if I could pass a
competitive examination in any of the names. No question did I ever ask
of living creature concerning these churches, and no answer to any
antiquarian question on the subject that I ever put to books, shall
harass the reader’s soul. A full half of my pleasure in them arose out
of their mystery; mysterious I found them; mysterious they shall remain
for me.
Where shall I begin my round of hidden and forgotten old churches in the
City of London?
It is twenty minutes short of eleven on a Sunday morning, when I stroll
down one of the many narrow hilly streets in the City that tend due south
to the Thames. It is my first experiment, and I have come to the region
of Whittington in an omnibus, and we have put down a fierce-eyed, spare
old woman, whose slate-coloured gown smells of herbs, and who walked up
Aldersgate-street to some chapel where she comforts herself with
brimstone doctrine, I warrant. We have also put down a stouter and
sweeter old lady, with a pretty large prayer-book in an unfolded
pocket-handkerchief, who got out at a corner of a court near Stationers’
Hall, and who I think must go to church there, because she is the widow
of some deceased old Company’s Beadle. The rest of our freight were mere
chance pleasure-seekers and rural walkers, and went on to the Blackwall
railway. So many bells are ringing, when I stand undecided at a street
corner, that every sheep in the ecclesiastical fold might be a
bell-wether. The discordance is fearful. My state of indecision is
referable to, and about equally divisible among, four great churches,
which are all within sight and sound, all within the space of a few
square yards.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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