It is his habit upon entering to dash for the bill-of-fare, and give an
order (if he is adroit enough to catch one of the maids on the fly)
before removing either coat or hat. At least fifteen seconds may be
economized in this way. Once seated, the luncher falls to on anything at
hand; bread, cold slaw, crackers, or catsup. When the dish ordered
arrives, he gets his fork into it as it appears over his shoulder, and
has cleaned the plate before the sauce makes its appearance, so that is
eaten by itself or with bread.
Cups of coffee or tea go down in two swallows. Little piles of cakes are
cut in quarters and disappear in four mouthfuls, much after the fashion
of children down the ogre’s throat in the mechanical toy, mastication
being either a lost art or considered a foolish waste of energy.
A really accomplished luncher can assimilate his last quarter of cakes,
wiggle into his coat, and pay his check at the desk at the same moment.
The next, he is down the block in pursuit of a receding trolley.
To any one fresh from the Continent, where the entire machinery of trade
comes to a standstill from eleven to one o’clock, that _déjeuner_ may be
taken in somnolent tranquillity, the nervous tension pervading a
restaurant here is prodigious, and what is worse—catching! During recent
visits to the business centres of our city, I find that the idea of
eating is repugnant. It seems to be wrong to waste time on anything so
unproductive. Last week a friend offered me a “luncheon tablet” from a
box on his desk. “It’s as good as a meal,” he said, “and so much more
expeditious!”
The proprietor of one down-town restaurant has the stock quotations
exhibited on a black-board at the end of his room; in this way his
patrons can keep in touch with the “Street” as they hurriedly stoke up.
A parlor car, toward a journey’s end, is another excellent place to
observe our native ways. Coming from Washington the other day my
fellow-passengers began to show signs of restlessness near Newark. Books
and papers were thrown aside; a general “uprising, unveiling” followed,
accompanied by our objectionable custom of having our clothes brushed in
each other’s faces. By the time Jersey City appeared on the horizon,
every man, woman, and child in that car was jammed, baggage in hand, into
the stuffy little passage which precedes the entrance, swaying and
staggering about while the train backed and delayed.
The explanation of this is quite simple. The “influence” was at work,
preventing those people from acting like other civilized mortals, and
remaining seated until their train had come to a standstill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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