The Wide World Magazine, Vol. 22, No. 128, November, 1908Various
History
The Wide World Magazine, Vol. 22, No. 128, November, 1908
Various
Adventure stories -- Periodicals; English periodicals; History, Modern -- 20th century -- Periodicals; Voyages and travels -- Periodicals
When I first went out to Papua there were only five other white women
on the north-east coast, though there were a few at Samarai, the port.
Naturally life under these conditions was very different from that in
civilized countries. Roads there were none; but as we generally walked
along the beach, or went by boat, this did not much matter, and there
were a few tracks along which we walked in single file, with tall reeds
or grass rising perhaps to six feet on either side of us. Gloves were
unnecessary, and even veils were too hot to be worn. The best time
of the day was the evening, though the early morning was deliciously
cool. The Wedauans rose at an unearthly hour, and I have heard an
astonished visitor at about 7 a.m. ask, "Is she ill?" on hearing that I
was still in bed. But though we got up as a rule before seven we found
a rest at midday almost imperative. My days went quietly and quickly
enough. Sellers of edible ants, coco-nuts, and other foodstuffs came
when it suited them or when they required tobacco, and patients who
were receiving treatment usually arrived about 9 a.m. Then I could
settle down to translation work, while the boy and girl boarders busied
themselves in the garden or fished in the sea. In the afternoon we had
school in the village for two hours, followed by classes or visiting
the natives in their homes. They were most cordial, and would often
make me a present of a sticky piece of taro or a fibrous sweet potato
picked steaming out of the big earthenware pot. We all sat on the
shingly floor, though perhaps I was given a mat to spread under me,
and we would talk of pigs, crops, babies, and other matters till after
service it was time for me to return to the house. It was not very
exciting, but certainly a very happy life.
We tried the experiment of keeping sheep, but for various reasons, such
as the presence of spear grass and attacks from village dogs or pigs,
were compelled to give it up. Still, while we had them it was possible
to taste fresh mutton occasionally, and I remember one of the lady
missionaries coming in great glee to her fellow-workers. "Hurrah!" she
cried. "A lamb has had sunstroke; we shall have fresh meat."
Fowls have always been difficult to rear, as there is little a village
dog will not force his way through when he knows of their existence. On
one occasion one of these daring animals killed a mission fowl in broad
daylight, only to be immediately shot by a watchful missionary. We ate
the fowl that night, while the villagers feasted royally on the dog.
So, in spite of the double catastrophe, nothing was wasted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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