We will stop here a moment and make a pencil sketch of this Arab camp,
but we must be very careful not to let them see us writing. They have a
great fear of the art of writing, a superstitious idea that a person who
writes or sketches in their camp, is writing some charm or incantation
to bring mischief upon them. I once heard of a missionary who went to an
Arab village to spend the night. The people were all Maronites, and
grossly ignorant. He pitched his tent and sat down to rest. Presently a
crowd of rough young men came in and began to insult him. They demanded
bakhshish, and handled his bedding and cooking utensils in a very brutal
manner, and asked him if he had any weapons. He bethought himself of one
weapon and began to use it. He took out a pencil and paper, and began to
make a sketch of the ringleader. He looked him steadily in the eye, and
then wrote rapidly with his pencil. The man began to tremble and slowly
retreated and finally shouted to his companions, and off they all went.
Shortly after, they sent a man to beg Mr. L. not to cut off their heads!
Their priests teach them that the Protestants have the power of working
magic, and that they draw a man's portrait and take it with them, and if
the man does anything to displease them, they cut off the head of the
picture and the man's head drops off! Mr. L. sent them word that they
had better be very careful how they behaved. They did not molest him
again.
Here we are near Tripoli, at the Convent of the _Sacred Fish_. What a
beautiful spot! This large high building with its snow-white dome, and
the great sycamore tree standing by this circular pool of crystal water,
make a beautiful scene. What a crowd of Moslem boys! They have come all
the way from Tripoli, about two miles, to feed the Sacred Fish. They are
a gay looking company, with their red, green, blue, yellow, white and
purple clothes, and their bright red caps and shoes, and some of them
with white turbans. They come out on feast days and holidays to play on
this green lawn and feed the fish. The old sheikh who keeps this holy
place, has great faith in these fish. He says they are all good Moslems,
and are inhabited by the souls of Moslem saints, and there is one black
fish, the Sheikh of the saints, who does not often show himself to
spectators. There are hundreds if not thousands of fish, resembling the
dace or chubs of America. He says that during the Crimean war, many of
the older ones went off under the sea to Sevastopol and fought the
Russian infidels, and some of them came back wounded. The people think
that if any one eats these fish he will die immediately. That I _know_
to be false, for I have tried it. When the American Consul was here in
1856, his Moslem Kawasses caught several of the fish, and brought them
to Mr. Lyons' house. We had them cooked and ate them, but found them
coarse and unpalatable. That was sixteen years ago and we have not felt
the evil effects yet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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