There, then, are the guests, gay, serene, reclining or leaning on their
elbows on the three couches. The table is before them, but only to be
looked at, for slaves are continually moving to and fro, from one to the
other, serving every guest with a portion of each dish on a slice of
bread. Pansa daintily carries the delicate morsel offered him to his
mouth with his fingers, and flings the bread under the table, where a
slave, in crouching attitude, gathers up all the debris of the repast.
No forks are used, for the ancients were unacquainted with them. At the
most, they knew the use of the spoon or cochlea, which they employed in
eating eggs. After each dish they dipped their fingers in a basin
presented to them, and then wiped them upon a napkin that they carried
with them as we take our handkerchiefs with us. The wealthiest people
had some that were very costly and which they threw into the fire when
they had been soiled; the fire cleansed without burning them. Refined
people wiped their fingers on the hair of the cupbearers,--another
Oriental usage. Recollect Jesus and Mary Magdalene.
At length, the repast being concluded, the guests took off their
wreaths, which they stripped of their leaves into a goblet that was
passed around the circle for every one to taste, and this ceremony
concluded the libations.
I have endeavored to describe the supper of a rich Pompeian and exhibit
his dwelling as it would appear reconstructed and re-occupied. Reduce
its dimensions and simplify it as much as possible by suppressing the
peristyle, the columns, the paintings, the tablinum, the exedra, and all
the rooms devoted to pleasure or vanity, and you will have the house of
a poor man. On the contrary, if you develop it, by enriching it beyond
measure, you may build in your fancy one of those superb Roman palaces,
the extravagant luxuriousness of which augmented, from day to day, under
the emperors. Lucius Crassus, who was the first to introduce columns of
foreign marble, in his dwelling, erected only six of them but twelve
feet high. At a later period, Marcus Scaurus surrounded his atrium with
a colonnade of black marble rising thirty-eight feet above the soil.
Mamurra did not stop at so fair a limit. That distinguished Roman knight
covered his whole house with marble. The residence of Lepidus was the
handsomest in Rome seventy-eight years before Christ. Thirty-five years
later, it was but the hundredth. In spite of some attempts at reaction
by Augustus, this passion for splendor reached a frantic pitch. A
freedman in the reign of Claudius decorated his triclinium with
thirty-two columns of onyx. I say nothing of the slaves that were
counted by thousands in the old palaces, and by hundreds in the
triclinium and kitchen alone.
"O ye beneficent gods! how many men employed to serve a single stomach!"
exclaimed Seneca, who passed in his day for a master of rhetoric. In our
time, he would be deemed a socialist.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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