In hardening carbon tool steel in water, too much cannot be said in favor of slow, careful heating, nor against overheating if cracks are to be avoided. It is not wise to take the work from the hardening bath and leave it exposed to the air if there is any heat left in it, because it is more liable to crack than if left in the bath until cold. In heating, plenty of time is taken for the work to heat evenly clear through, thus avoiding strains caused by quick and improper heating, In quenching in water, contraction is much more rapid than was the expansion while heating, and strains begin the moment the work touches the water. If the piece has any considerable size and is taken from the bath before it is cold and allowed to come to the air, expansion starts again from the inside so rapidly that the chilled hardened surface cracks before the strains can be relieved. Many are most successful with the hardening bath about blood warm. When the work that is being hardened is nearly cold, it is taken from the water and instantly put into a can of oil, where it is allowed to finish cooling. The heat in the body of the tool will come to the surface more slowly, thus relieving the strain and overcoming much of the danger of cracking. Some contend that the temper should be drawn as soon as possible after hardening: but that if this cannot be done for some hours, the work should be left in the oil until the tempering can be done. It is claimed that forming dies and punch-press dies that are difficult to harden will seldom crack if treated in this way. Small tools or pieces that are very troublesome because of peculiar shape should be made of steel which has been thoroughly annealed. It is often well to mill or turn off the outer skin of the bar, to remove metal which has been cold-worked. Then heat slowly just through the critical range and cool in the furnace, in order to produce a very fine grain. Tools machined from such stock, and hardened with the utmost care, will have the best chance to survive without warping, growth or cracking. SHRINKING AND ENLARGING WORK Steel can be shrunk or enlarged by proper heating and cooling. Pins for forced fits can be enlarged several thousandths of an inch by rapid heating to a dull red and quenching in water. The theory is that the metal is expanded in heating and that the sudden cooling sets the outer portion before the core can contract. In dipping the piece is not held under water till cold but is dipped, held a moment and removed. Then dipped again and again until cold. Rings and drawing dies are also shrunk in a similar way. The rings are slowly heated to a cherry red, slipped on a rod and rolled in a shallow pan of water which cools only the outer edge. This holds the outside while the inner heated portion is forced inward, reducing the hole. This operation can be repeated a number of times with considerable success. TEMPERING ROUND DIES