The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 09Stevenson, Robert Louis
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The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 09
Stevenson, Robert Louis
English literature -- 19th century
"Up this morning at three, coupled my self-acting gear to the break,
and had the satisfaction of seeing it pay out the last four miles in
very good style. With one or two little improvements, I hope to make
it a capital thing. The end has just gone ashore in two boats, three
out of four wires good. Thus ends our first expedition. By some odd
chance a _Times_ of June the 7th has found its way on board through
the agency of a wretched old peasant who watches the end of the line
here. A long account of breakages in the Atlantic trial trip. To-night
we grapple for the heavy cable, eight tons to the mile. I long to
have a tug at him; he may puzzle me, and though misfortunes or rather
difficulties are a bore at the time, life when working with cables is
tame without them.
"2 P.M.--Hurrah, he is hooked, the big fellow, almost at the first
cast. He hangs under our bows, looking so huge and imposing that I
could find it in my heart to be afraid of him.
"_June 17._
"We went to a little bay called Chia, where a fresh-water stream falls
into the sea, and took in water. This is rather a long operation, so I
went a walk up the valley with Mr. Liddell. The coast here consists of
rocky mountains 800 to 1,000 feet high, covered with shrubs of a
brilliant green. On landing, our first amusement was watching the
hundreds of large fish who lazily swam in shoals about the river; the
big canes on the further side hold numberless tortoises, we are told,
but see none, for just now they prefer taking a siesta. A little
further on, and what is this with large pink flowers in such
abundance?--the oleander in full flower. At first I fear to pluck
them, thinking they must be cultivated and valuable; but soon the
banks show a long line of thick tall shrubs, one mass of glorious pink
and green. Set these in a little valley, framed by mountains whose
rocks gleam out blue and purple colours such as pre-Raphaelites only
dare attempt, shining out hard and weirdlike amongst the clumps of
castor-oil plants, cistus, arbor vitae, and many other evergreens,
whose names, alas! I know not; the cistus is brown now, the rest all
deep or brilliant green. Large herds of cattle browse on the baked
deposit at the foot of these large crags. One or two half-savage
herdsmen in sheepskin kilts, etc., ask for cigars; partridges whirr up
on either side of us; pigeons coo and nightingales sing amongst the
blooming oleander. We get six sheep, and many fowls too, from the
priest of the small village; and then run back to Spartivento and make
preparations for the morning.
"_June 18._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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