The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 09Stevenson, Robert Louis
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The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 09
Stevenson, Robert Louis
English literature -- 19th century
"We left Syra the morning after our arrival on Saturday the 4th. This
we did (first) because we were in a hurry to do something, and
(second) because, coming from Alexandria, we had four days' quarantine
to perform. We were all mustered along the side while the doctor
counted us; the letters were popped into a little tin box and taken
away to be smoked; the guardians put on board to see that we held no
communication with the shore--without them we should still have had
four more days' quarantine; and with twelve Greek sailors besides, we
started merrily enough picking up the Canea cable.... To our utter
dismay, the yarn covering began to come up quite decayed, and the
cable, which when laid should have borne half a ton, was now in danger
of snapping with a tenth part of that strain. We went as slow as
possible in fear of a break at every instant. My watch was from eight
to twelve in the morning, and during that time we had barely secured
three miles of cable. Once it broke inside the ship, but I seized hold
of it in time--the weight being hardly anything--and the line for the
nonce was saved. Regular nooses were then planted inboard with men to
draw them taut, should the cable break inboard. A----, who should have
relieved me, was unwell, so I had to continue my look-out; and about
one o'clock the line again parted, but was again caught in the last
noose, with about four inches to spare. Five minutes afterwards it
again parted, and was yet once more caught. Mr. Liddell (whom I had
called) could stand this no longer; so we buoyed the line and ran into
a bay in Siphano, waiting for calm weather, though I was by no means
of opinion that the slight sea and wind had been the cause of our
failures.--All next day (Monday) we lay off Siphano, amusing ourselves
on shore with fowling-pieces and navy revolvers. I need not say we
killed nothing; and luckily we did not wound any of ourselves. A
guardiano accompanied us, his functions being limited to preventing
actual contact with the natives, for they might come as near, and talk
as much as they pleased. These isles of Greece are sad, interesting
places. They are not really barren all over, but they are quite
destitute of verdure; and tufts of thyme, wild mastic or mint, though
they sound well, are not nearly so pretty as grass. Many little
churches, glittering white, dot the islands; most of them, I believe,
abandoned during the whole year, with the exception of one day sacred
to their patron saint. The villages are mean, but the inhabitants do
not look wretched, and the men are good sailors. There is something in
this Greek race yet; they will become a powerful Levantine nation in
the course of time.--What a lovely moonlight evening that was! the
barren island cutting the clear sky with fantastic outline, marble
cliffs on either hand fairly gleaming over the calm sea. Next day, the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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