The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 24Stevenson, Robert Louis
General
The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 24
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Authors, Scottish -- 19th century -- Correspondence; Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 -- Correspondence
Let me tell you of our village feast. The chief, who was our guide in
the matter, found four large fat hogs, which Louis bought, and four
cases of ship's biscuit were sent over from the _Casco_, which is lying
at Papeete for repairs. Our feast cost in all about eighty dollars.
Every Sunday all things of public interest are announced in the Farehau
(an enormous public bird cage) and the news of the week read aloud from
the Papeete journal, if it happens to turn up. Our feast was given on a
Wednesday, and was announced by the chief the Sunday before, who
referred to Louis as "the rich one." Our hogs were killed in the
morning, washed in the sea, and roasted whole in a pit with hot stones.
When done they were laid on their stomachs in neat open coffins of green
basket work, each hog with his case of biscuits beside him. Early in the
morning the entire population began bathing, a bath being the
preliminary to everything. At about three o'clock--four was the hour
set--there was a general movement towards our premises, so that I had to
hurry Louis into his clothes, all white, even to his shoes. Lloyd was
also in white, but barefoot. I was not prepared, so had to appear in a
red and white muslin gown, also barefoot. As Mrs. Stevenson had had a
feast of her own, conducted on religious principles, she kept a little
in the background, so that her dress did not matter so much. The chief,
who speaks French very well, stood beside Louis to interpret for him.
By the time we had taken our respective places on the veranda in front
of our door, an immense crowd had assembled. They came in five, instead
of four detachments which was what the chief expected, and he was a
little confused at first, as he and Louis had been arranging a speech to
four sets of people, which ran in this order. The clergyman at the head
of the Protestants: the chief, council, and irreligious:--one of the
council at their head. The schoolmaster with the schoolchildren: the
catechist and the Catholics: but there was another very small sect, by
some strange mischance called Mormons, which it was supposed would be
broken up and swallowed by the others. But no, the Mormons came in a
body alone, marshalled by the best and wittiest speaker--_bar Rui_--in
Tautira. Each set of people came bending under the weight of bamboo
poles laden with fruits, pigs, fowls, etc. All were dressed in their
gayest pareus, and many had wreaths of leaves or flowers on their heads.
The prettiest sight of all was the children, who came marching two and
two abreast, the bamboo poles lying lengthwise across their shoulders.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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