The Writings of Thomas Jefferson: Library Edition - Vol. 6 (of 20)Jefferson, Thomas
History
The Writings of Thomas Jefferson: Library Edition - Vol. 6 (of 20)
Jefferson, Thomas
United States -- Politics and government -- 1775-1783; United States -- Politics and government -- 1783-1789
Here I am, Madam, gazing whole hours at the Maison Quarree, like a
lover at his mistress. The stocking weavers and silk spinners around it
consider me a hypochondriac Englishman, about to write with a pistol
the last chapter of his history. This is the second time I have been in
love since I left Paris. The first was with a Diana at the Chateau de
Laye-Epinaye in Beaujolois, a delicious morsel of sculpture, by M. A.
Slodtz. This, you will say, was in rule, to fall in love with a female
beauty; but with a house! it is out of all precedent. No, Madam, it is
not without a precedent in my own history. While in Paris, I was
violently smitten with the Hotel de Salm, and used to go to the
Tuileries almost daily, to look at it. The _loueuse des chaises_,
inattentive to my passion, never had the complaisance to place a chair
there, so that, sitting on the parapet, and twisting my neck round to
see the object of my admiration, I generally left it with a
_torti-colli_.
From Lyons to Nismes I have been nourished with the remains of Roman
grandeur. They have always brought you to my mind, because I know your
affection for whatever is Roman and noble. At Vienna I thought of you.
But I am glad you were not there; for you would have seen me more angry
than, I hope, you will ever see me. The Praetorian Palace, as it is
called, comparable, for its fine proportions, to the Maison Quarree,
defaced by the barbarians who have converted it to its present purpose,
its beautiful fluted Corinthian columns cut out, in part, to make space
for Gothic windows, and hewed down, in the residue, to the plane of the
building, was enough, you must admit, to disturb my composure. At
Orange, too, I thought of you. I was sure you had seen with pleasure
the sublime triumphal arch of Marius at the entrance of the city. I
went then to the Arenae. Would you believe, Madam, that in this
eighteenth century, in France, under the reign of Louis XVI., they are
at this moment pulling down the circular wall of this superb remain, to
pave a road? And that, too, from a hill which is itself an entire mass
of stone, just as fit, and more accessible? A former intendant, a M. de
Basville, has rendered his memory dear to the traveller and amateur, by
the pains he took to preserve and restore these monuments of antiquity.
The present one (I do not know who he is) is demolishing the object, to
make a good road to it. I thought of you again, and I was then in great
good humor, at the Pont du Gard, a sublime antiquity, and well
preserved. But most of all here, where Roman taste, genius, and
magnificence, excite ideas analogous to yours at every step. I could no
longer oppose the inclination to avail myself of your permission to
write to you, a permission given with too much complaisance by you, and
used by me with too much indiscretion. Madame de Tott did me the same
honor. But she, being only the descendant of some of those puny heroes
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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