The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
But, whatever the motives may have been, the fight against extravagance
was carried on as persistently as fruitlessly until quite recent times,
and there exists a mass of information with regard to the dress and
manners of the people in the Spanish sumptuary enactments unequalled
elsewhere. The decrees usually took the form of a representation from
the Cortes to the sovereign, setting forth in a preamble the particular
abuses to be remedied, and then proposing a remedy which the sovereign
usually confirmed by what was called his "pragmatic sanction," and the
decree was then proclaimed and had the force of law. A large number of
these decrees or "pragmatics" of the highest interest will be found in
the British Museum manuscripts (MSS. Add. 9933 and 9934), and many more
are set forth in Sempere's "Historia de las leyes suntuarias" (Madrid,
1788), whilst the familiar and festive traditions of old Madrid teem
with quaint stories of ingenious evasions and jovial defiance of the
laws under the very noses of the sable-clad Acaldes and Alguaciles,
whose grave and solemn duty it was to clip lovelocks and measure frills
and furbelows.
The first vicious extravagance which seizes upon a hardy, simple people
who find themselves safe after a period of struggle is naturally that
of {211} gluttony; and the earliest sumptuary decrees of the Castilian
kings were directed against this particular excess.
In point of date the first decree extant in Spain of a sumptuary
character was that issued by Don Jaime (El Conquistador) of Aragon in
1234. He was extremely devout and ascetic himself, and was shocked at
the growing extravagance of his subjects, who having in his remote
mountain kingdom finally expelled the Moors, turned their attention to
tourneys, shows, and mimic warfare, at which great sums were spent both
in feasting and adornment. The Jews too, who at the time nearly
monopolised Spanish trade, encouraged the growing taste for the fine
stuffs and precious ornaments, from the sale of which they derived so
large a profit. So in 1234 Don Jaime decreed from his capital of
Zaragoza that no subject of his should sit down to a meal of more than
one dish of stewed, and one of roast meat, unless it were dried and
salted. As much game as they pleased might be eaten, on condition that
it had been hunted by the eater, but otherwise only one dish of game
might be served. No jongleur or minstrel might eat with ladies and
gentlemen, and no striped or bordered stuffs were to be worn. Gold and
silver, as well as tinsel, were prohibited, and ermine and other furs
were only to be used as a trimming to hoods and hanging sleeves. Jaime
since his childhood had been trying to crush the rising power of his
feudal nobles, and had already embarked on that long career of conquest
by which he subdued the Moorish kingdoms of Majorca and Valencia, so
that, although he himself was now safe in his mountain realm from
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