The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
The Cortes of 1560 reported that the nation was fast being ruined by
extravagance in dress, and begged that a "pragmatic" should be issued
forbidding every sort of ornament or tissue in which metal entered, and
strictly limiting the trimming of garments to a plain piping round the
edge. This pragmatic was duly granted, but during the next few years a
considerable change was seen. Philip had married the beautiful young
French Princess Elizabeth of Valois, who had been brought up with Mary
Stuart in that light-hearted court that Brantome described so well.
She had no patience with the rigid puritanism and peddling interference
of stern authority with beauty's armoury, and French fashions for
ladies became general. A "pragmatic" {229} was published in 1563,
ostensibly re-enforcing that of 1537 (which, as has been shown,
prohibited the use of gold lace or embroidery in any form), but really
relaxing the regulations greatly, for the benefit of the ladies. They
might in future wear sleeves of point lace in gold or silver, gold or
silver gauze, or silk shot with gold, and their jackets might be made
of similar stuffs, whilst they might deck their coifs, wimples,
stomachers, and under-linen with as much gold as they pleased. Gold,
silver, or crystal buttons could now be worn, but not on the skirt, and
only on the head, bosom, bodice, and sleeves; whilst the hat might be
trimmed with gold gimp. Some concessions were made to their spouses as
well, for they were permitted to clothe their nether limbs in silk
hose, and their trunks might be slashed and trimmed with silk, and,
generally speaking, the wearing of silk was greatly extended.
Contemporary writers are full of the great extravagance in dress which
followed this period. Moncada says that it was not uncommon for a
man's dress to cost 300 ducats a suit, whilst the abuse of precious
stones, both by men and women, was carried to a ridiculous excess.
Contemporary portraits show that things were bad enough in this respect
in England at the time, but they were much worse in Spain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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