The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
Another fashion brought from France was much more objectionable, but
took a stronger hold in Spain than elsewhere. Round hoop-skirts or
farthingales had been common in most parts of Europe for over fifty
years before, but the new refinement, called a "guarda-infante," was a
very large, farthingale flattened back and front so as to stick out
inordinately at the sides, particularly at the hips. The jaunty
Madrileñas added to it a new feature, which made it worse than ever,
namely, a metal section or facing to the bottom hoop which resounded
against a similar plate on the heels of their clogs, or clanked upon
the ground, so that a musical clickety-click accompanied them wherever
they went; even as it did that aged equestrienne of Banbury famed in
English nursery lore. As the bold wenches minced along they prided
themselves upon the eccentric or rhythmical effects they produced.
They would be neither shamed, coerced, nor persuaded to abandon the
foolish caprice until they tired of it themselves, but Don Philip did
his best by pragmatics to suppress it. In 1639 the famous fulmination
against female extravagance in dress was issued, part of which ran as
follows:
"His Majesty orders that no woman, whatever her quality, shall wear a
guarda-infante; which is a costly, superfluous, painful, ugly,
disproportionate, lascivious, indecent article of dress, giving rise to
sin on the part of the wearers and on that of men for their sakes. The
only exception to this rule shall be public prostitutes.
"No skirts shall consist of more than eight yards of silk or a
proportionate quantity of other stuff, nor shall they measure more than
four yards round; the {252} same rule shall apply to polonaises,
over-skirts, hen-coop skirts and petticoats.
"No woman wearing shoes shall have a bottom hoop, farthingale, or
anything else in the skirt for the purpose of making a noise, and
bottom hoops or farthingales shall not be worn except with pattens at
least five inches high.
"No woman shall wear low-cut bodices except women of known evil life.
Any person guilty of infraction of this pragmatic shall lose the
offending article of dress and pay a fine of 20,000 maravedis for the
first offence, and for the second double that amount, with exile from
the Court."
The unfortunate dressmakers who made the garments were to be much more
severely punished than the fair wearers, and four years' penal
servitude was their sentence for a second offence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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