The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
That practically ended the fight for sumptuary control. Finery was
triumphant in the long struggle, and the strong arm of authority was
obliged to confess itself powerless to dictate on the question of
personal adornment. Half-hearted attempts were made after this to
interfere in sumptuary matters by Spanish sovereigns, but the effects
of their decrees were hardly felt outside their own households. In
1780, for instance, a pragmatic as severe in form as ever was issued,
minutely regulating the wearing of mourning and prohibiting mourning
coaches, but little notice was taken of it after the first few weeks;
and later still a curious mild little decree was issued by Charles IV.
limiting the number of dishes which, according to custom, many
officials were entitled to receive daily from the royal kitchens. It
is a long drop from Alfonso the Wise to the silly dodderer who handed
over his kingdom to Napoleon because his son had offended him; but the
same feeling, almost the {260} same phraseology, pervades the first
pragmatic we have quoted and the last. Both deplore the lavishness and
luxury of the people, and exhort them to correct the excess and
superfluity which characterises their tables; and in both of them the
King promises that he himself will rigidly conform to his own decree
and reform the extravagance of his private repasts.
Custom, taste, and perhaps necessity, have done what five hundred years
of "pragmatics" failed to do. The Spaniards are the most sober and
frugal-feeding nation in Europe, and certainly do not exceed in the
matter of gaudy or ostentatious raiment. The only traits left to them
perhaps by the extravagant old fashions we have described, are their
consuming love for driving about the streets in a fine carriage,
however much they may stint in all else; and the grave stiff-necked
dignity which a century of the golilla left behind it.
[1] Andres Muñoz' MSS., National Library, Madrid.
[2] "L'Espagne au 16me et 17me siècles," par Morel Fatio. Paris, 1878.
[3] "Discursos y apuntamientos de Don Mateo de Lison y Biedma."
Secretly printed in 1622.
[4] As first invented, the golilla opened in front, as shown in the
portrait of Quevedo, facing page 256, but later, when the hair was worn
long, it was made square in front and was fastened behind, as shown in
the portrait of Charles the Bewitched.
[5] Manuscript of Don Diego de Soto y Aguilar in the Royal Academy of
History in Madrid, transcript in the author's possession.
[6] Their father's name was Gil Imon de la Mota.
[Illustration: Tailpiece]
{261}
_A PALACE IN THE STRAND._
{263}
[Illustration: Headpiece]
_A PALACE IN THE STRAND._[1]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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