This perplexing paradox, which no one in Japan's Tendai "Vatican" on
Mt. Hiei could resolve, finally drove Dogen wandering in search of
other teachers. He initially stopped at Eisai's temple, Kennin-ji, long
enough to be taught the basics of Rinzai Zen practice, but then he
traveled on. Eventually, though, he returned to Kennin-ji, and in 1217,
began Zen study under Eisai's disciple, Myozen (1184-1225). Of his
relationship with this Rinzai master he later declared:
_Ever since I awakened to the Bodhi-mind and sought the supreme Truth I
made many visits to Buddhist masters throughout the country. It was
thus that I happened to meet the Venerable Myozen at Kennin-ji. Nine
years quickly passed as I studied the Way under him. During that period
I had the opportunity to learn from him, to some extent, the training
methods of the Rinzai Zen sect. To the Venerable Myozen, leading
disciple of my late master Eisai, was rightly transmitted the highest
supreme Law and he was unparalleled among his fellow disciples in
learning and virtue.4
_Dogen may have been impressed as much by the legend of Eisai as by the
shouting and beating of the Rinzai sect, for he often sprinkled stories
about Eisai through his writings and sermons thereafter.
But Dogen still could not find contentment, even with the Rinzai he
received at Kennin-ji, and at age twenty-three he resolved to go to
China and experience Ch'an teachings firsthand. So in the spring of
1223 he and Myozen shipped out for China, intending to visit Buddhist
establishments there. (Another reason for his hasty decision to go to
China for study may have been a series of political upheavals involving
armed monks, which resulted in some of his high-placed relations being
banished--while a series of executions took place.)5
After a rough but speedy voyage across the East China Sea, they arrived
at Ming-chou, down the coast from the Sung capital of Hangchow. Myozen
could not wait and headed straight for the Ch'an complex on Mt. T'ien-
t'ung. However, the more cautious Dogen chose to stay aboard ship until
midsummer, easing himself into Chinese life slowly. But even there he
experienced an example of Ch'an fervor and devotion that impressed him
deeply, if only because it was so different from what he had seen in
Japan. This lesson was at the hands of a sixty-year-old Chinese cook
from a Ch'an monastery who visited the ship to purchase some Japanese
mushrooms. Dogen became involved in an animated conversation with the
old monk and, since his monastery was over ten miles away, out of
courtesy invited him to stay the night on board ship. However, the old
tenzo monk (one in charge of monastery meals) insisted on returning,
saying duty called. But, Dogen pressed, surely there must be others who
could cook in such a large monastery, and besides cooking was hardly
the point of Zen. As Dogen later recalled his own words:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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