Atlantic Coast (U.S.) -- Description and travel -- Fiction
All the summer resorts get somehow a certain character, but it is not
easy always to say how it is produced. The Long Branch region was
the resort of politicians, and of persons of some fortune who connect
politics with speculation. Society, which in America does not identify
itself with politics as it does in England, was not specially attracted
by the newspaper notoriety of the place, although, fashion to some
extent declared in favor of Elberon.
In the morning the artist went up to the pier at the bathing hour.
Thousands of men, women, and children were tossing about in the lively
surf promiscuously, revealing to the spectators such forms as Nature had
given them, with a modest confidence in her handiwork. It seemed to the
artist, who was a student of the human figure, that many of these people
would not have bathed in public if Nature had made them self-conscious.
All down the shore were pavilions and bath-houses, and the scene at a
distance was not unlike that when the water is occupied by schools of
leaping mackerel. An excursion steamer from New York landed at the
pier. The passengers were not of any recognized American type, but mixed
foreign races a crowd of respectable people who take their rare holidays
rather seriously, and offer little of interest to an artist. The boats
that arrive at night are said to bring a less respectable cargo.
It is a pleasant walk or drive down to Elberon when there is a
sea-breeze, especially if there happen to be a dozen yachts in the
offing. Such elegance as this watering-place has lies in this direction;
the Elberon is a refined sort of hotel, and has near it a group of
pretty cottages, not too fantastic for holiday residences, and even the
“greeny-yellowy” ones do not much offend, for eccentricities of color
are toned down by the sea atmosphere. These cottages have excellent
lawns set with brilliant beds of flowers; and the turf rivals that of
Newport; but without a tree or shrub anywhere along the shore the aspect
is too unrelieved and photographically distinct. Here as elsewhere the
cottage life is taking the place of hotel life.
There were few handsome turn-outs on the main drive, and perhaps the
popular character of the place was indicated by the use of omnibuses
instead of carriages. For, notwithstanding Elberon and such fashion as
is there gathered, Long Branch lacks “style.” After the White Sulphur,
it did not seem to King alive with gayety, nor has it any society. In
the hotel parlors there is music in the evenings, but little dancing
except by children. Large women, offensively dressed, sit about the
veranda, and give a heavy and “company” air to the drawing-rooms. No,
the place is not gay. The people come here to eat, to bathe, to take the
air; and these are reasons enough for being here. Upon the artist, alert
for social peculiarities, the scene made little impression, for to an
artist there is a limit to the interest of a crowd showily dressed,
though they blaze with diamonds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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