Their Silver Wedding Journey — Volume 2Howells, William Dean
General
Their Silver Wedding Journey — Volume 2
Howells, William Dean
Americans -- Europe -- Fiction; Transatlantic voyages -- Fiction
The life of the Nuremberg patriciate, now extinct in the control of the
city which it builded so strenuously and maintained so heroically, is
still insistent in all its art. This expresses their pride at once and
their simplicity with a childish literality. At its best it is never so
good as the good Italian art, whose influence is always present in its
best. The coloring of the great canvases is Venetian, but there is no
such democracy of greatness as in the painting at Venice; in decoration
the art of Nuremberg is at best quaint, and at the worst puerile.
Wherever it had obeyed an academic intention it seemed to March poor and
coarse, as in the bronze fountain beside the Church of St. Lawrence. The
water spins from the pouted breasts of the beautiful figures in streams
that cross and interlace after a fancy trivial and gross; but in the base
of the church there is a time-worn Gethsemane, exquisitely affecting in
its simple-hearted truth. The long ages have made it even more affecting
than the sculptor imagined it; they have blurred the faces and figures in
passing till their features are scarcely distinguishable; and the
sleeping apostles seem to have dreamed themselves back into the
mother-marble. It is of the same tradition and impulse with that supreme
glory of the native sculpture, the ineffable tabernacle of Adam Krafft,
which climbs a column of the church within, a miracle of richly carven
story; and no doubt if there were a Nuremberg sculptor doing great things
today, his work would be of kindred inspiration.
The descendants of the old patrician who ordered the tabernacle at rather
a hard bargain from the artist still worship on the floor below, and the
descendants of his neighbor patricians have their seats in the pews
about, and their names cut in the proprietary plates on the pew-tops. The
vergeress who showed the Marches through the church was devout in the
praise of these aristocratic fellow-citizens of hers. "So simple, and yet
so noble!" she said. She was a very romantic vergeress, and she told them
at unsparing length the legend of the tabernacle, how the artist fell
asleep in despair of winning his patron's daughter, and saw in a vision
the master-work with the lily-like droop at top, which gained him her
hand. They did not realize till too late that it was all out of a novel
of Georg Ebers's, but added to the regular fee for the church a gift
worthy of an inedited legend.
Even then they had a pleasure in her enthusiasm rarely imparted by the
Nuremberg manner. They missed there the constant, sweet civility of
Carlsbad, and found themselves falling flat in their endeavors for a
little cordiality. They indeed inspired with some kindness the old woman
who showed them through that cemetery where Albert Durer and Hans Sachs
and many other illustrious citizens lie buried under monumental brasses
of such beauty:
"That kings to have the like, might wish to die."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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