Thomas Hardy's DorsetHopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
History
Thomas Hardy's Dorset
Hopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
Dorset (England); Hardy, Thomas, 1840-1928
Charmouth is a pleasant walk of two miles from Lyme Regis, but the road
goes over a very steep hill at the top of which is a cutting known as
the "New Passage," the "Devil's Bellows," where in windy weather there
is a chance of being carried off one's feet. The village consists of one
long street situated above the mouth of the _Char_, the leading feature
of the view being the heights which hedge in the valley, particularly
those from which the road has just descended. It is an ancient place,
which still preserves the memory of two sanguinary battles between the
Danes and Saxons. In the first the Saxons were commanded by Egbert, in
the second by Ethelwolf. In both the Danes were victorious, but so
crippled in the fight that they were obliged to retreat to their ships.
At Charmouth, too, in the attempted escape of Charles II. to France,
occurred the incident which so nearly led to the discovery of the
fugitive. A plan had been concerted with the captain of a merchantman
trading to Lyme that a boat at a particular hour of the night should be
sent to the beach at Charmouth. Charles rode hither under the guidance
of Lord Wilmot and Colonel Wyndham and rested at the little inn to await
the appointed time. The vessel, however, from unforeseen circumstances,
was unable to leave the harbour, and the fugitive was obliged to give
up the enterprise and to pass the night in the village. The next morning
it was found that his horse had cast a shoe, and the village blacksmith
was summoned to repair the loss. This was a curious fellow, whose
suspicions were aroused on observing that the old shoes were fastened in
a manner peculiar to the north of England. The hostler, who was a
Republican soldier, carried the information to the Puritan minister.
From the minister it went to the magistrate, and from the magistrate to
the captain of a troop of horse, who soon galloped with his men in
pursuit. Fortunately for the king, they took the wrong road, and he
escaped.
The inn at which Charles rested is still standing. Part of it is now the
Congregational Manse. The front of the house has now been entirely
modernised, but the interior has retained all the quaint features of the
Carolean period, and here one may still see heavy ceilings and fine
oak-panellings. In the portion which is now a cottage a large chimney
(which is said to have served as a hiding-place) and the "king's
bedroom" are still pointed out to visitors. Until comparatively recent
times the inn was still providing ale to thirsty rustics and was called
the "Queen's Head," and several old natives can remember when the
landlord displayed a sign on which was inscribed:
"Here in this house was lodged King Charles,
Come in, sirs, you may venture;
For here is entertainment good
For churchman or dissenter."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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