Thomas Hardy's DorsetHopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
History
Thomas Hardy's Dorset
Hopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
Dorset (England); Hardy, Thomas, 1840-1928
When we reach the highest point of the main street the hill pitches down
to the right, and we look upon a prospect of the town with a character
of its own, not unworthy of observation, in which the sturdy,
square-towered church is a striking feature. To the left is a mill-pond,
which begins to wear the airs of history and reflects in the unruffled
lustre of its waters the inverted images of some very quaint houses
built of grey stone and almost entirely overspread with fungi and moss.
The lower walls of stone are black and polished with the leaning of
innumerable shoulders, and the steps of the external stone stairways are
worn into gullies by the tread of generations. The extraordinary "yards"
and byways are also worthy of attention. A few downward steps will bring
the pilgrim to St Mary's Church, which was rebuilt in 1859. The parish
registers date back to 1567, and the tower is thought to be Saxon. At
this church Ethelberta Petherwin, in _The Hand of Ethelberta_, is
secretly married to Lord Mountclere, and her father and brother arrive
too late to interfere with the ceremony.
A walk along the Herston Road brings us to Newton Manor, one of the old
Dorset manor-houses. The only relics of the ancient building are an
Elizabethan stone fireplace in the kitchen and the barn of the old
homestead, with an open timber roof, which has been converted into a
dining-hall. In the latter is a fine carved stone chimneypiece brought
from a Florentine palace.
A favourite excursion from Swanage is a trip to Studland. Any native
will direct the pilgrim to the footpath way to the "Rest and be
Thankful" seat at the top of Ballard Down, where one can take a
well-beaten track to the entrance of the village. At the remains of an
old cross bear to the right and follow a picturesque "water lane" to the
shore. Studland is one of the most charming villages in England, and the
church is one of the most notable in Dorset. It is an admirable example
of intact Norman work, and its chief details are perfect--including a
quaint corbel table in the nave, font, and moulded arches with carved
capitals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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