"Those Holy Fields." Palestine, Illustrated by Pen and PencilManning, Samuel
History
"Those Holy Fields." Palestine, Illustrated by Pen and Pencil
Manning, Samuel
Palestine -- Description and travel
A few hundred feet north of Jacob’s well, in the same “parcel of
ground,” is Joseph’s tomb. The structure over it is modern, and is an
ordinary Mohammedan _wely_. There is, however, no reason to doubt the
authenticity of the tradition which fixes upon this as the sepulchre of
the patriarch. The deep alluvial soil would not allow of the interment
being in a rock-hewn grave; but if the coffin were of granite or
alabaster, like those of Egyptian magnates, it might yet be recovered if
excavation were permitted. We have, however, already seen, when speaking
of the cave of Machpelah, that the Mohammedans assert that the body was
removed from its original place of sepulture and placed with those of
the other patriarchs at Hebron.
[Illustration: EVENING ON A HOUSETOP.
_From an original sketch by W. J. Webb._
]
The valley leading up to NABLUS, the Neapolis of the Romans, the Sychar
or Shechem of the Jews, is one of rare beauty. Dr. Porter says, with
slight exaggeration, “it is the finest in Palestine—in fact, it is the
only really beautiful site from Dan to Beersheba.” Without the grandeur
of the snow-crowned peaks of Switzerland, it yet reminded me of the
Swiss-Italian valleys in its bright colour and rich vegetation. Van de
Velde’s description of it is graphic and truthful: “Here there is no
wilderness, here there are no wild thickets, yet there is always
verdure; always shade, not of the oak, the terebinth, and the
carob-tree, but of the olive grove—so soft in colour, so picturesque in
form, that for its sake we can willingly dispense with all other wood.
Here there are no impetuous mountain-torrents, yet there is water;
water, too, in more copious supplies than anywhere else in the land; and
it is just to its many fountains, rills and water courses that the
valley owes its exquisite beauty.... There is a singularity about the
Vale of Shechem, and that is the peculiar colouring which objects assume
in it. You know that wherever there is water, the air becomes charged
with watery particles; and that distant objects beheld through that
medium seem to be enveloped in a pale blue or grey mist, such as
contributes not a little to give a charm to the landscape. But it is
precisely these atmospheric tints that we miss so much in Palestine.
Fiery tints are to be seen both in the morning and the evening, and
glittering violet or purple-coloured hues where the light falls next to
the long deep shadows; but there is an absence of colouring, and of that
charming dusky haze in which objects assume such softly blended forms,
and in which also the transition in colour from the foreground to the
farthest distance loses the hardness of outline peculiar to the perfect
transparency of an eastern sky. It is otherwise in the Vale of Shechem,
at least in the morning and the evening. Here the exhalations remain
hovering among the branches and leaves of the olive-trees, and hence
that lovely bluish haze. The valley is far from broad, not exceeding in
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