The company at the ball was of many nationalities,--French, English, and
German officers, the Americans of the Khedive’s staff, and
representatives of all the powers, great and small. The diplomats and
army officers knew the dreadful confusion of Ismaïl’s affairs. Though
all were guarded in their talk, one felt that Cairo society was an armed
camp, where France and England were engaged in a silent duel for the
control of the Suez Canal, Germany was “out for trade”, and only the
American Condottieri were for the Khedive!
The catastrophe came a few months later, when Ismaïl Pasha was deposed
and left Alexandria for Naples with his harem, his suite, and his two
sons, Hussein and Hassan, on the yacht _Mahroussahl_, leaving his uneasy
throne to my friend Tewfik Pasha. When she read of this my mother
exclaimed:
“Our friends the Princesses of the Abdin Palace have their wish at last;
they are now traveling to a new country!”
In Egypt my mother seemed much of the time to be living a life quite
apart from the sight-seeing and adventuring we shared. At the first
glimpse of the river Nile she seemed to enter a world where I could not
follow her. Moses, Joseph, the Pharaoh of the Exodus, all the figures in
Bible history with whom she had been familiar since earliest childhood,
stole between us like impalpable shadows, claiming her for their own. In
Palestine this absorption increased. If all the rest of our long
wandering was planned for my profit and pleasure, the trip to the Holy
Land was for herself the realization of a life’s dream. For the only
time in her life, so far as I know, she borrowed money to make what was
then a very expensive journey.
“Those are the mountains of Judea,” a returning missionary pointed out,
as we neared the coast. Soon the faint blue line grew stronger, we could
make out the yellow beach, olive groves, palm trees, and the flags of
many nationalities floating from the different consulates. We landed at
Jaffa, not an easy matter, as the steamer anchored half a mile from
shore, and we were compelled to clamber down to a small boat tossing
like a cockleshell on the rough sea.
We traveled chiefly on horseback, over precipitous mountain trails,
through the desert where we were told there was danger from the wild
tribesmen. My mother was obliged to pay a large sum for an escort of
Turkish soldiers to protect us from these wandering Bedouins. She made
her arrangements so well that while we were camping in the desert near
Jericho, Eugene Thayer, a rich young Bostonian, asked to join our party,
his own men having proved untrustworthy.
My cousin Julia was so much admired by one of the Bedouin chiefs that we
were advised not to linger in that locality lest he should attempt to
carry her off. Another American girl we met in Egypt was sought for an
exclusive harem.
“She is fairer than any Circassian!” her mother was told. After refusing
a large sum of money, this lady was urged to set her own price upon her
daughter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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