We spent a delightful week at Constantinople as the guests of
Captain--now Admiral--and Mrs. Frank Higginson. Captain Higginson’s ship
was in the port and we met many of his officers, among others,
Lieutenant John Jacob Hunker. These good friends arranged endless
frolics and sight-seeing expeditions for us. Aside from our pleasure of
being with such hospitable compatriots, Constantinople did not please
me. I did not like the Turks or their capital. After the beautiful
bronze and ebony people of upper and lower Egypt, the Turks looked a
pale, ugly, washed-out race. I sighed for Hassan, our Bisharin guide at
Assuan, with a patina of richest chocolate; for Abbas, our Theban donkey
boy, whose color was like new-cast golden bronze. Hassan, who was
twelve years old, was offered to us by his father as a gift, it being
forbidden for a man to sell his son!
At that time Constantinople was infested by bands of mongrel scavenger
dogs. They were so thick in the street outside my window that they
looked like a moving yellow carpet. I have been told that shortly after
this these poor creatures became such a nuisance that the authorities
loaded them upon scows and transported them to a barren rocky islet
where there was literally nothing to support life and where the stronger
devoured the weaker, the survivors finally perishing from lack of food.
I have been familiar with stories of Turkish atrocities all my life, but
this has always lingered in my mind as one of the foulest.
It was at Constantinople that I discovered the secret of the mummy. My
mother, who always had a catholic taste in curios, had bought,
“unbeknownst” to me, a child mummy while we were at Luxor on the Nile.
Thinking I might not like the purchase, she had concealed it from me by
making each of her friends on the Nile steamer keep it for one night in
their staterooms. My cousin, Julia McAllister, writes me _à propos_ of
this incident:
“That was a delicious story. At Cyprus she bought two bottles of a
very rare wine for Uncle Sam. These were packed in the valise with
the mummy. One bottle broke; this did not improve the mummy, which
was not in a case, and by the time we reached Constantinople, no
one would go near the valise! In Athens we persuaded her to ship
the mummy home by sailing vessel.”
Why did my mother want that mummy? Perhaps, like Théophile Gautier, she
might have written a romance about it, had we not with youth’s cruelty
ridiculed it! To my knowledge she made no use of that queer little
bundle swathed in its ancient yellowed linen bands that lay for years in
a trunk in our attic! She thought my sister Laura, mother of many
children, might like it; but Laura refused the gift.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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