We reached the marvelous garden of delight, Granada, at nine o’clock on a full moonlight night. The next morning we were in the Alhambra in the very room where Queen Isabella first listened to Columbus and promised him her jewels for his quest. The capital of the Moors is perched on a high hill behind which rise the snow-clad Sierras. The town of Granada lies at the foot of the hill reserved for the palaces and gardens. The exterior of the Alhambra is grim and simple, but noble in its somber strength. The interior--but it is indescribable! The beauty of design, the wealth of color, the wonderful harmony, the romance, the hot passionate quality of it all makes Greece seem cold and Italy thin compared to it. Charles the Fifth did a little butchering and Ferdinand and Isabella a little more, but on the whole it has been wonderfully preserved. Restoration is only made when necessary and is so perfectly done that one asks not to be told where the original work leaves off and the reproduction begins. We saw the Zingari of Andalusia living in caves scooped from the living rock. A dance was arranged for us; four girls and one man trod strange and beautiful measures. The best dancer of the five, whose name is Incarnacion, is partly Spanish. When the performance was half over, each of the women kissed me on the cheek and gave a little mock embrace to the gentlemen of our party. As they were well scrubbed and freshly dressed, I enjoyed the pretty ceremony. We were offered wine, which we declined and they drank. Andalusia was inhabited by the Moors for seven hundred and seventy-seven years before the Spaniards drove them out! Poor dears, how sorry I am they ever left it. Many of them took with them the massive iron doorkeys of their houses, believing that they would surely return some day to the land their industry had made fruitful, their art made beautiful. To-day in some ancient houses of Morocco these keys of the lost homes of Granada and Andalusia still hang upon the wall! Andalusia is now chiefly important to the rest of the world as the treasure house of their scattered buildings, each one a gem, while the Moors, since they went back to Morocco, do not seem to have done much for themselves or for anybody else. Was it pleasant, do you think, to stand in the room of the Alhambra where Washington Irving lived, and to pick a leaf from the tree that bore his favorite oranges, also to eat an orange from the same? Our guide, Antonia Jimenez, was the great, great nephew of his guide. Irving’s “Alhambra” is a classic; it gives the feeling of the place wonderfully.